Toilet shut off valve leak

[MachAF]

I must have lucked out today. Found my toilet valve leaking, must have just started today. I turned it off, still leaking. I pull off the valve and cannot get the compression fitting off. Went and bought a compression fitting removal tool. That compression fitting was on there so tight I couldn't twist the screw by hand and need the end of a wrench as leverage. It eventually came off. Now the copper is no longer 1/2", it's a bit smaller and you can see by the photo. I assume the compression fitting did that??? So I cut it off just before the lip ( I couldn't get any closer to cut it because the cutting tool was hitting the copper. For the time being I put a shark bite end cap on it so I could get the water back on.

Wondering the proper way to fix it. You can see the solder joint there, but that would require cutting dry wall, desoldering then sweat a new 1/2 pipe in. I have enough room to put a new compression fitting on after making the metal cover hole a bit bigger.

Any advice?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

I would try a Sharkbite stop valve.
Model# 23036-0000LF right angle
Model# 23037-0000LF straight.

Angle Stop with Brushed Nickel Finish

Brushed nickel finish control valve for plumbing fixtures and appliances. Ideal for maintenance and repair without having to shut off water to the entire home.

www.sharkbite.com

Plumbing Straight Stops: Compression Straight & Loose Key Stops

Used to control the flow of water to household plumbing fixtures and appliances. Ideal for maintenance and repair without having to shut-off water to the entire home.

www.sharkbite.com

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Eman85]

I would try the push to fit style valve like the Sharkbite and see if there is an escutcheon that fits it. In hindsight it might have been worth a try before cutting. Other choice is sweat solder.

 

[MachAF]

I would try the push to fit style valve like the Sharkbite and see if there is an escutcheon that fits it. In hindsight it might have been worth a try before cutting. Other choice is sweat solder.

It wouldn't fit the pipe properly without cutting it. I tried the shark bite end cap pulled right off. The photo shows the lip, its 1/2 copper but that 1/2" part where the compression fits was it is now 3/8" or something smaller than 1/2". So it needed to be cut.
Anyway, I just ended up using a push on connector from Ace hardware. Problem fixed.

 

[Reach4]

In retrospect, you could have left the old nut and ferule on the pipe, and try to hook a new compression valve to that.

But since a non-SharkBite connector worked for you, great.