Delta 600 series tub shower leak

[na25te]

Almost finished with 600 series cold side leak above the shower in attic leaking down pipe. I already replaced with PEX and shark bite. Put everything back together and hot water is clogged. RP50 cap was Calcified shut so I cut off so I wouldn’t damage mixing valve body.

Question is this going to be a problem?? I cut a little portion of threads getting cap off.

 

[na25te]

Almost finished with 600 series cold side leak above the shower in attic leaking down pipe. I already replaced with PEX and shark bite. Put everything back together and hot water is clogged. RP50 cap was Calcified shut so I cut off so I wouldn’t damage mixing valve body.

Question is this going to be a problem?? I cut a little portion of threads getting cap off.

I had already put back tile as I had checked for leaks and didn’t realize I was not getting hot water.

So I’m trying to avoid going back through tile to replace whole valve body.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[na25te]

 

[GReynolds929]

So you had the wall open, and ran new pipes but didn't replace the old outdated non pressure balancing valve with a new better valve? Why? The cut on the valves will lead to a leak but is not affecting the hot issue. Did the valve body twist by chance when you were working on it? The small soft copper tubes could be kinked. I highly recommend replacing the valve now before it becomes an issue later.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

So you had the wall open, and ran new pipes but didn't replace the old outdated non pressure balancing valve with a new better valve? Why? The cut on the valves will lead to a leak but is not affecting the hot issue. Did the valve body twist by chance when you were working on it? The small soft copper tubes could be kinked. I highly recommend replacing the valve now before it becomes an issue later.

I agree with grey because that is a very old faucet...

You had to cut that cam nut off the faucet and you might have went too deep into the threads

The parts are available and in all honestly it all might not leak
once the new cartridge is installed

If you have access I suggest you change out the faucet and install a Delta 1700 faucet
in its place

 

[na25te]

Yeah I feel like idiot for not replacing when I had wall open. I was trying to not have to spend the extra money on new valve but went ahead and did it anyways now. At least the tile is cheap to repair and it was only time and pain and suffering from the wife.

As far as the cut threads; It was just a trickle when I got all the new parts back into valve, but from the area of the cut. So I had no choice but to replace and take tile back out.

Let it be a lesson, cheaping out and not replacing it the first time was a mistake.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Just had to slice this one out today

 

[na25te]

I agree with grey because that is a very old faucet...

You had to cut that cam nut off the faucet and you might have went too deep into the threads

The parts are available and in all honestly it all might not leak
once the new cartridge is installed

If you have access I suggest you change out the faucet and install a Delta 1700 faucet
in its place

So I replaced with all new delta kit and still don’t have enough pressure for the hot water at the shower. I have plenty of pressure on the vanity that shares the same hot supply. I’m very frustrated. What am I missing?

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

you might want to pull the ball and washers out of the faucet and then
turn on the water to the home for about
10-15 seconds or more....
Close the curtain to the shower room and let it blast out to see if you blow
some debris out of the faucet....
of course if you have ball valves in the lines you can just power flush
just the hot side if you so desire...

I have blasted out a ton of shit before that I would have never known was
lurking in the lines or body of the faucet
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Back-flushing
I have also had to " back flush" older systems before to blow everything back into the water heater
this takes a lot more prep to do......

basically you have to capp off the shower head and capp off the tub spout so water cannot
escape either way....
then you turn off the water to the heater and you drain off about 5 gallons off the bottom of the
heater down the drain.....
then you turn on the tub faucet to the middle setting so the cold water blasts back down through the hot side of the faucet all the way back into the water heater.....
if anything is stuck in the line,,,, in theory it will simply flush back down into the bottom of the heater
where it will lay forever.....
This process has gotten me out of a lot of troubles in older homes with galvanized lines over the years
and made the hot side of the faucet more acceptable ....

you might have to turn it on and off a number of times to dislodge things in the line

then just put it all back together again , turn on the water heater
and hope that it solved the problem


good luck

 

[na25te]

First time I took out cartridge I found little pieces of sediment that I cleared. Put it back no change, I blew it out for 30-45 seconds and got hot and cold water. Then put cartridge back in and same result. Its hot and cold correctly so it’s not a case of switched pipes, just no pressure. As I open the valve I have about half pressure at 2:00 with cold and when I open to 12 loose almost all water, open to 10 and trickle of hot.

It seems that the cam nut is too tight?? I only hand tightened, but when I loosen it I get more water flow but then I can’t seem to turn off or get any real mixing of water temp. It’s like the springs are stuck. I’ve taken apart the cartridge and made sure there was nothing inside of it. I lubricated all gaskets and moving parts to no avail. I have read all through installation manual and checked online. There is a spacer included with this kit but that is for the trim and not for the cartridge.

There seems to only be one way that the spring and gaskets properly fit, narrow end into the black gasket, larger end of spring into the hole. But maybe I’m wrong and the springs are messed up.

This is out of the box delta classic tub/shower single handle set up. Sooo frustrated.

 

[na25te]

Replaced valve body and new delta classic kit from Home Depot.

RP46074 cartridge issues. I cannot seem to get any pressure through the cartridge. I have plenty of pressure when I remove the cart.

Tried reversing the cartridge. Still no pressure. I have done many of these valves before and never had a problem, but now in my own house I’m frustrated and stuck.

Are there any cartridges that fit the UB1000 universal valve body?

 

[na25te]

you might want to pull the ball and washers out of the faucet and then
turn on the water to the home for about
10-15 seconds or more....
Close the curtain to the shower room and let it blast out to see if you blow
some debris out of the faucet....
of course if you have ball valves in the lines you can just power flush
just the hot side if you so desire...

I have blasted out a ton of shit before that I would have never known was
lurking in the lines or body of the faucet
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Back-flushing
I have also had to " back flush" older systems before to blow everything back into the water heater
this takes a lot more prep to do......

basically you have to capp off the shower head and capp off the tub spout so water cannot
escape either way....
then you turn off the water to the heater and you drain off about 5 gallons off the bottom of the
heater down the drain.....
then you turn on the tub faucet to the middle setting so the cold water blasts back down through the hot side of the faucet all the way back into the water heater.....
if anything is stuck in the line,,,, in theory it will simply flush back down into the bottom of the heater
where it will lay forever.....
This process has gotten me out of a lot of troubles in older homes with galvanized lines over the years
and made the hot side of the faucet more acceptable ....

you might have to turn it on and off a number of times to dislodge things in the line

then just put it all back together again , turn on the water heater
and hope that it solved the problem


good luck

I have tried flushing several times. I have tried several cartridges, still no flow through this valve. I feel like it must be a pressure equilibrium issue. I don’t have valves on my lines near the shower but about to go put some in and test. I have reached out to delta and they gave me some story about my hot water being too hot, I moved temp from 118 to 108, and still nothing. I have checked for blockages and cannot seem to find anything, tapped the vinturi, no effect, pulled all sharkbite fittings and reseated and confined that they are not blocked. Valve is not upside down, but tried to flip cartridge, no effect. This bathrrom is on a seperate WH that only goes to washing machine, kitchen sink, vanity, and shower. I have plenty of hot water all other places, just not at shower.

So frustrated. I’ve put in rough in valves in pat and never had these issues. Is this some Biden low flow crap?? Do I just rip out this crap delta and go get a moen?