Toilet Flange - tile install

[Jerome8283]

Thanks Jim. I'm a member at www.johnbridge.com. I will check it out.

 

[Jerome8283]

IF you decide to use glue AND do it right, you can make the subfloor much stronger by gluing than without. BUT, if you do it wrong, you will create big problems for the tile. You can only reliably do this if the original layer is clean, which may be a major problem. To do it right, you need to use something like a full spread wood glue (Titebond II works well), install the second layer down before the glue starts to skin over, lay it so the end joint is 1/4 span beyond the end of the bottom layer, offset over the edge joints, and screw it down at the required intervals before the glue dries. Do NOT use a construction adhesive you get from a caulking gun - you will end up with gaps, which can kill the tile. Some people use an adhesive and spread it out using a notched trowel, like they were putting down tile, but that can still leave gaps, especially if it is a thinner piece of ply.

Good day guys,

I want to make sure I'm clear about this step. The existing floors consist of a 1/2" or 5/8" ply subfloor plus a 1/2" or 5/8" ply underlayment which is already glued perpendicular to the subfloor. It's difficult to measure either of the existing floors so this is a best guess. Due to the flange issue, I decided to raise the floor by installing a 5/8" layer of ply.

Should the 5/8" ply run perpendicular to the underlayment?

Is glue still required?

Thanks

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Ply always needs to run across the joists, or you lose a lot of strength. Since you already have about 1" or so of subfloor, the new stuff is not for strength, I'd just screw it down, but across the joists to gain maximum benefit anyways.

If the glued top layer is something like partical board, you are asking for big troubles with tile, since the stuff swells at the hint of moisture. Since it is glued, you might have to take all of it out to the joists. If it is plywood, you're good to go for the floor raising with another layer.

While more money, you might want to consider adding self-leveing-cement. You could do that in one layer, and not need cbu, and not add more ply. You could use a membrane on top of it like Ditra, but it would not be required. This has good and bad points...the slc will level the floor. Depending on the actual floor, it might be quite thick in some areas, and could cause problems with the transition through the door. But, it gives a really nice tileable surface, quickly. You would need it to be at least 3/8" thick or so across the whole floor to cover the required lath on a wood subfloor and have a good surface.

 

[Jerome8283]

Thanks Jim. I already bought the ply. Also, all layers are ply, no partical board in this bathroom. It's in the bedrooms though and I hate the stuff.

 

[Mickster]

Hey Jerome-if there is plywood already down, I would put in 1/4" to 1/2" CBU (Cement Backer Board such as Hardibacker) with a layer of latex or acrylic modified thinset under it. Then fill the gaps (1/8") with more thinset until level, then press in 2" fiberglass tape (alkali resistant designed for backer board). Finally apply thinset and tile.

Michael

 

[Pewterpower]

So how is this project going???

 

[Jerome8283]

I removed the marble platform and raised the floor with 5/8" ply. My shower pan is installed and I'm shopping for tile. It's going well. Thanks

 

[Prashster]

Dude, aren't you glad you found this forum?!

 

[Jerome8283]

Dude, aren't you glad you found this forum?!

Definately!!! You've been a great help!!!!On both forums!!!!