To CSV or not to CSV.

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RustyKnuckles

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Can anyone tell me what a cycle stop valve actually does? My well was drilled in the early 1990s', but I didn't live on the property. The pump was installed in the late 1990's, but I didn't begin to use it full time until 2019. Well is 170 feet deep, pump is set at 160 feet. When I water my garden or my fruit trees I can feel the pump starting up and stopping, starting up and stopping, etc. etc. etc. I know that is how pumps wear out--from a lot of cycling. So my understanding is a cycle stop valve eliminates that. But how does it eliminate the cycling?

Also, are there good brands of csv and brands to avoid?
 

RustyKnuckles

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Never mind. I just found cyclestopvalves dot com. Valveman's website. I'm sure I'll have more questions after I digest his site.
 

Sarg

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I have two wells and both with CSVs.
A CSV1A at the house well and a CSV125-1 thermoplastic (50 psi ) at a utility well with a small pressure tank in another building.
I cannot outline the specifics on how they function but can mention we use the utility well to primarily fill a 50 gallon "water wagon" on a tow cart I built for the wife to water her flower beds. That pump cycles once until it reaches the 50 psi position and stays on until I shut it down.
As you mention ..... I used to listen to the pump cycle as it went from 40 to 60 over and over. ( No more ).
 

Gsmith22

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Can anyone tell me what a cycle stop valve actually does? My well was drilled in the early 1990s', but I didn't live on the property. The pump was installed in the late 1990's, but I didn't begin to use it full time until 2019. Well is 170 feet deep, pump is set at 160 feet. When I water my garden or my fruit trees I can feel the pump starting up and stopping, starting up and stopping, etc. etc. etc. I know that is how pumps wear out--from a lot of cycling. So my understanding is a cycle stop valve eliminates that. But how does it eliminate the cycling?

Also, are there good brands of csv and brands to avoid?
in all well water systems, the size of the pressure tank directly affects how often the pump comes on, all other things being equal. typically, he csv is paired with a small pressure tank so inevitably the pump will turn on every time you use water. but, csv's main benefit is that it "tricks" the pump into staying on while using the water so you don't get multiple pump cycles during any one instance of water use (pump going on, pump going off, pump going on, pump going off...). You just get one cycle of on and then the pump eventually turns off after water use is done and pressure tank repressurized.

Traditionally, without a csv, the cycling was combated by using a large pressure tank. if the water uses are short enough and pressure tank is large enough, the pump might not even turn on once during any one water use. it all really depends on a bunch of variables that are unique to each system and use case.

For me, I have a very large pressure tank in my house with no csv. Its the way it was when I purchased it. My pump might go on 4 times a day (MIGHT). Its because of the size of my pressure tank and the relatively limited water use. (csv marketing likes to show toilets, sinks, showers, faucets, etc. all on at the same time - that is certainly not my use case). If you have a near continuous use of water, by all means get the csv. if its intermittent use and you have a large pressure tank, csv may not be necessary.

My personal opinion is that a large pressure tank plus a csv is probably the best of both worlds. The large tank takes care of the intermittent use cases where pump doesnt' come on anyway. csv takes care of the daughter's 20 minute shower where I almost certainly get one pump cycle and then maybe a 2nd pump cycle shortly after her shower is done because of the extended use drawing the pressure tank down a second time.
 

Valveman

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in all well water systems, the size of the pressure tank directly affects how often the pump comes on, all other things being equal. typically, he csv is paired with a small pressure tank so inevitably the pump will turn on every time you use water. but, csv's main benefit is that it "tricks" the pump into staying on while using the water so you don't get multiple pump cycles during any one instance of water use (pump going on, pump going off, pump going on, pump going off...). You just get one cycle of on and then the pump eventually turns off after water use is done and pressure tank repressurized.

Traditionally, without a csv, the cycling was combated by using a large pressure tank. if the water uses are short enough and pressure tank is large enough, the pump might not even turn on once during any one water use. it all really depends on a bunch of variables that are unique to each system and use case.

For me, I have a very large pressure tank in my house with no csv. Its the way it was when I purchased it. My pump might go on 4 times a day (MIGHT). Its because of the size of my pressure tank and the relatively limited water use. (csv marketing likes to show toilets, sinks, showers, faucets, etc. all on at the same time - that is certainly not my use case). If you have a near continuous use of water, by all means get the csv. if its intermittent use and you have a large pressure tank, csv may not be necessary.

My personal opinion is that a large pressure tank plus a csv is probably the best of both worlds. The large tank takes care of the intermittent use cases where pump doesnt' come on anyway. csv takes care of the daughter's 20 minute shower where I almost certainly get one pump cycle and then maybe a 2nd pump cycle shortly after her shower is done because of the extended use drawing the pressure tank down a second time.
We knew more than 30 years ago there is no better thing for a pump, no matter how the water is being used, than to have a Cycle Stop Valve paired with a large pressure tank. The large tank takes care of multiple intermittent uses without the pump even coming on, and the CSV keeps the pump running continuously instead of cycling when water is being used for long periods of time. Fewer cycles for the pump the better, no matter how the water is used.

However, over 30 years of field experience on hundreds of thousands of systems with installers and customers, we now understand that a large pressure tank, especially without a CSV, has many disadvantages. There are always tradeoff's no matter which way you go. With a large pressure tank and no CSV, the pump may only cycle 3-4 times a day with minimal use, (75-100 gallons a day only). With a big tank the water stays in a rubber bag for long periods of time getting warm and stale. The pressure also decreases from 60 all the way down to 40 PSI as the tank is emptied during the day. As the pressure decreases, flow from fixtures also decreases. Pressure in the house will linger close to the low side much longer than the high side as the tank is emptied. Then the pump/motor itself will only run a short minute or two to refill the tank. It will be running at full load (amperage) for the short time then turned off before the internal heat produced from startup and running at full amperage has had time to dissipate out of the motor. While filling the tank as full pump flow rate it is stretching the tank bladder quickly and producing heat in the tank. You can actually feel the heat from compressing the air on the air side of any tank after the tank has filled quickly. The pump starts with no or little back pressure against it, which is the opposite of the best way to start a pump. Then when the pump shuts off it has been filling the tank at full pump flow, which causes water hammer from the fully open check valve slamming shut. Even in houses where water is never used continuously like irrigation, heat pumps, etc., an unexpected continuous use can still destroy the pump. A leak in the system nobody knows about for a long period of time, or the kids leaving a garden hose running down a ditch no one saw for weeks, can still cycle the pump to death before you know what is going on. I guess I should also mention the high cost and space needed for a large pressure tank, and they seem to just keep getting more expensive and have even shorter lives.

The trade off to using a Cycle Stop Valve with a small tank is that the pump may cycle 20 times a day instead of 3-4. Even 20-30 cycles a day is nothing for motors designed for a maximum of 100-300 cycles per day. For the trade off of cycling 20-30 times a day instead of 3-4, you get fresh water from the well for every use, instead of water that has been sitting in a rubber bag for hours or days. You get a motor that runs at low amperage, creating less heat, and runs long enough to dissipate the startup heat before shutting off. While the 1-2 gallons you get from a small pressure tank can supply the ice maker or rinse a toothbrush, after all the faucets are closed, the CSV refills the tank at only 1 GPM, which makes a 10 gallon size tank (2 gallon draw) a 2 minute timer. The CSV is filling the tank at only 1 GPM for a minute or two, to make sure everyone in the house is finished with water before letting the pump shut off. If within that time someone opens a tap, the CSV supplies the demand and the timer starts again without having cycled the pump on/off. While filling the tank at 1 GPM the motor is running at low amps and is sufficiently cool before shutting off. While filling the tank at 1 GPM the check valve is only open the thickness of a piece of paper when the pump shuts off. This mechanical soft stop eliminates water hammer and all the destruction that goes with it completely. When water is used for long periods of time, be it months long irrigation or hours long heat pump zones, the CSV keeps the pump running as long as water is being used, saving the pump from thousands of cycles. Same thing applies for a leak in the system or if the kids left the hose running at the neighbors. Again I should mention the much lower cost and space savings with a CSV and small pressure tank. When pump manufacturers call the CSV a "disruptive" product, I know every pump system should have one. You can use a CSV with any size tank you want, but it is the CSV, not a large tank that will save the pump under any circumstance. Another advantage of the small pressure tank with the CSV is strong constant pressure for almost every use of water in the house. :)
 
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Valveman

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Can anyone tell me what a cycle stop valve actually does?
To be such a simple valve, the Cycle Stop Valve has a complicated explanation. But it is just a simple valve that opens and closes similar to a ball valve. Although instead of a manual handle it opens and closes using a spring and water pressure. There is no electronics. A bolt adjust a spring tension most commonly to 50 PSI. Anytime the water pressure is less than 50 PSI the spring pushes the valve open trying to send you more water from the pump. A diaphragm on the other end of the spring senses the system water pressure. The diaphragm pushes against the spring and closes the valve when the pressure gets above 50 PSI to keep the system from reaching 60 PSI and being shut off. In this way the valve continually modulates or regulates to keep the system at 50 PSI constant and the pump running continuously, no matter how much or how little water you are using. When no more water is being used, the pressure increases above 50 PSI, and the diaphragm pushes the valve closed. However, the patented part is having a certain size notch cut on the valve seat in a certain way to prevent it from closing to less than 1 GPM. 1 GPM was derived from being about 5 times more than really needed to keep the pump/motor cool, as they are cooled by the water that passes over the motor and through the pump. This 1 GPM still coming through the CSV and since all the taps are closed, it has no place to go except the pressure tank. The pressure tank is then topped off at 1GPM until it gets to 60 PSI where the regular pressure switch shuts off the pump. Then as with any normal pressure tank system, the water in the tank must be used as the pressure drops from 60 to 40 PSI before the pressure switch starts the pump again.

This has been as simple an explanation as I can make it about how the CSV works and how it works with different size tanks. But we have a lot of other information on our web page about how the Cycle Stop Valve is beneficial for the pump, motor, check valve, pipe, wire, and even the well itself. Nearly every problem associated with a well pump or booster pump is caused by the pump cycling on and off. When a Cycle Stop Valve is added, nearly all problems go away, which is why it is such a disruptive product to the pump industry. Pump manufacturers will try to dissuade you from using a Cycle Stop Valve and push their expensive, computerized, problematic, and short lived variable speed pumps or VFD's which try to deliver the same constant pressure as a Cycle Stop Valve. If you don't fall for one of their expensive variable speed Tar Babies they at least want you to just use a regular size pressure tank so they know when it will fail and can schedule building you new pumps on a regular basis.

The Cycle Stop Valve has such a complicated and long explanation because it favorably affects nearly every aspect of a pump system in some way. This is hard for many people to believe because it is just a simple valve. :)
 

RustyKnuckles

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Right now I'm running a sprinkler on a peach tree. The hydrant is a little over half on. The pump cycles every 18 seconds.

Here is my tank--a 42 gallon tank.

P1010291.JPG
 

Chad D.

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Right now I'm running a sprinkler on a peach tree. The hydrant is a little over half on. The pump cycles every 18 seconds.

Here is my tank--a 42 gallon tank.

View attachment 100395

That’s pretty frequent for the pump to start up.

18 seconds to fill a 42-gallon (about 10 gallons of water) tank seems really fast. Assuming you’re running 5-8gpm through your hydrant, you must either have a huge pump or something is haywire with the tank.

How many GPM does your pump deliver?
What PSI does your pressure switch turn on/off? Assume 40/60?
What air pressure is in your bladder? Should be 2# less than pressure switch turn on. Need to bleed water pressure off before checking air pressure.


But, I’d say you’d likely benefit from a CSV with your use. Let that pump run!


To your original question on how they operate, Valveman explained it well. In simpler terms, I believe the CSV is pretty
Much a pressure reducing valve with a small bypass line.

The CSV adjustment bolt sets the pressure that the PRV will let through. Let’s say 50#. Once the house system gets to 50, the PRV closes and some more water bleeds by via the bypass. This will eventually fill the pressure tank and house piping to the pressure switch shutoff point, which would likely be 60#. Super simple. Makes sense.


But before you jump on a CSV, I’m curious if something is wrong with what you have…
 

Sarg

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If your system is cycling every 18 seconds you definitely have something wrong and the pressure tank is the first suspect.
Air pressure setting in the tank way off or a broken / leaking bladder.
 

RustyKnuckles

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I agree something is wrong with my system. I agree I need a CSV. I have a call in to my pump guy, but he's not called me back yet.
 

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I agree the tank is bad. They nearly always are. Tank bladders going bad is just one more problem caused by the pump cycling on and off too much. Sure you could replace the tank and get it back to cycling "normally". But "normal" cycling is what caused the problem in the first place. Adding a CSV will prevent it from happening again.
 

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Right now I'm running a sprinkler on a peach tree. The hydrant is a little over half on. The pump cycles every 18 seconds.

Here is my tank--a 42 gallon tank.

View attachment 100395
That tank indeed did have a bladder. Most tanks today have a diaphragm, which is more durable.

That bladder was theoretically replaceable, but in practice the tank was normally replaced, as you would with a tank with a bad diaphragm.
https://www.pumpvendor.com/Flotec_FP7110T.html
Sta-Rite_U20-13.jpg


You can work around the problem for a while by adding more air. A pressure tank empty of water will be fairly light. Your tank will be heavy because there will be water trapped above the leaky bladder. You may drill 1 or more holes to get the water out to make pulling it out easier.
 

Sarg

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Just to share ====== I did a "copy-paste" of Valveman's explanation of the CSV function ..... so I can refer to it in a couple months when I've forgotten.
(Not dementia ----- Just dim )
 

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To CSV, or not to CSV, that is the question:
Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer
The slings and arrows of outrageous cycling,
Or to take arms against a sea of troubles
And by adding a CSV end them. To start—to stop,
No more; and by running continuously to say we end
The heart-ache and the thousand natural cycles
That pump/motors heir to: 'tis a consummation
Devoutly to be wish'd.

Couldn't help myself. Lol!
 

RustyKnuckles

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WELL SAID VALVEMAN! You are indeed a man of discerning and noble tastes.
I just ordered your CSV along with the 10 gallon tank.
We shall see what happens.
 

Chad D.

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But, a CSV doesn’t eliminate pump starting and stopping, as some posts may lead us to believe, yeah? More consistent pressure, yep.

Correct me if I am wrong please, as I am not trying to create or spread misinformation.

It all depends on how you’re using your water if you’re trying to decide if a CSV is going to reduce cycling, compared to a regular system.

Let’s assume that a CSV is installed with a 4.4 gallon tank. Short use intervals like handwashing or toilet flushing would likely increase pump cycling compared to a large tank that had volume to burn between pump cycles.

Long runs of water, a CSV will most likely decrease cycles.
 

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But, a CSV doesn’t eliminate pump starting and stopping, as some posts may lead us to believe, yeah? More consistent pressure, yep.

Correct me if I am wrong please, as I am not trying to create or spread misinformation.

It all depends on how you’re using your water if you’re trying to decide if a CSV is going to reduce cycling, compared to a regular system.

Let’s assume that a CSV is installed with a 4.4 gallon tank. Short use intervals like handwashing or toilet flushing would likely increase pump cycling compared to a large tank that had volume to burn between pump cycles.

Long runs of water, a CSV will most likely decrease cycles.
You need to read post #5 again and try to understand it.

"You can use a CSV with any size tank you want, but it is the CSV, not a large tank that will save the pump under any circumstance."

Or let me rephrase it this way.

You cannot install a large enough pressure tank to save a pump from every circumstance. But a CSV with almost any size tank can save a pump under any circumstance. That is why the CSV is a disruptive product. With a CSV, there is no continuous flow rate that can be used that will cause a pump to cycle itself to death, no matter what.

Once you see how the mechanical timer works by filling a tank that holds 1-2 gallons of water at a rate of 1 GPM, it will start to make sense. But most people have to actually see it work before the light bulb starts to glow above their head. The mechanical timer cannot be defeated. You would have to stand a a faucet, open it for 2 minutes, then close it for 2 minutes, to actually make the pump cycle on/off. If you stand at the faucet and do that every 4 minutes 360 times a day, you can make the pump cycle 360 times a day with the 4.5 gallon size tank. But water is never used that way. The very worst case scenario would be a continuous leak 24/7 of about 0.5 GPM. Even that will only cause the pump to run for 2 minutes and be off for 2 minutes. That is still 2 times better than the minimum 1 minute on and 1 minute off, which is the way big pressure tank systems are sized.

Again, there is no set flow rate (0.5 GPM) or number or times a day faucets can be opened and closed that will cause the pump to cycle anymore than 2 minute on and 2 minute off. Only in cases where a drip system is used at 0.5 GPM for long periods or have multiple houses causing extra intermittent uses would I recommend a tank larger than 4.5 gallon size. Even then I would only recommend going up to a 20 gallon size tank at most. The 20 gallon tank only holds 5 gallons of water, but that then becomes a 5 minute mechanical timer. Worst case scenario of 0.5 PM used 24/7 with a CSV and a 20 gallon size tank would be 10 minutes on and 10 minutes off, which is only 75 cycles in 24 hours.

But again, water is never used that way. With all irrigation zones sized to more than 1 GPM, the CSV will NEVER let the pump cycle. With the mechanical timer thing, even very sporadic use of water in a house will still only allow maybe 30 cycles per day.

The way a CSV works is counter intuitive, which is why it is hard to understand. It even took the best pump engineers in the country a couple years to figure out that with a CSV and a small tank, there is no water use scenario that will cycle the pump to death. That makes the CSV disruptive to the pump industry. Using the CSV with any larger tank just makes it even more disruptive to people who sell pumps.

In the last 30 years I bet I have explained this several thousand times in many different ways. But again, it is counter intuitive and you are not going to understand it until you actually see it work. Counter intuitive means it works the opposite of what people have in their heads, which is (big tank, less cycling/small tank, more cycling). All of that goes out the window when you add a Cycle Stop Valve.
 

Chad D.

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Still not saying a CSV is a bad idea, but we’re getting a strong sales pitch vibe here.

Let me ask a couple specific questions and see what specific answers are.

Using a basic CSV with 4.4 gallon tank:
If I flush a toilet that uses 1.6 gallons per flush, will the pump cycle? If a family of 4 uses the potty 3 times per person each day, how many times will the pump cycle? Assume no other use.

Using a standard 80 gallon tank with regular 40/60 pressure switch:
Same scenario. How many times will the same pump cycle in this scenario?


I’m not knocking a CSV at all; just looking from a perspective that I believe seems to be overlooked by the sales pitch. Again, not knocking them, I think they’re a great idea! Just having a hard time getting on board with the idea that a CSV is the end all/ be all solution.

I think a CSV with a large tank makes most sense for a wider variety of use, but then you lose some of the other advantages like cost and space.
 
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RustyKnuckles

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I don't hear a sales pitch. I hear Valveman explaining how his system works. I remember when I first got my well drilled and asked here for pump advice, he advised me to look into getting a CVS. I had so much on my plate then that I just didn't have the time to fully explore the CVS. So I thank him for trying to explain it.
 
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