Sump Pump plumbing connections

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Dylan

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I have a small landscaped area that pools water and has some seepage from the groundwater. The sump pump is the Zoeller 108-0001 craw space kit with the M53 pump, slotted pit, and 1 1/2 inch connections, and I got the Zoeller 30-0181 check valve. They'll be arriving Friday and I want to make sure I have the materials and info to install it over the weekend.

I'm planning to use solid wall PVC pipe place of the flexible hose and want to run the sump outlet directly to 1. 1/2 inch solid wall pipe and want to transition to 2-inch pipe for the horizontal run to the street where it will drain. I also want crush resistance for burying under gravel and foot traffic so I'm using Sch 80 vs Sch 40 and know it may be overkill. The material I've assembled for the install are:

Sch 80 PVC
1 1/2 inch PVC (straight pipe, 45's and 90's)
2-inch PVC (straight pipe, 45's and 90's)

Fernco flex fittings
1 1/2 into 2 in coupling
1 1/2 in flex elbow
2 in flex elbow


For power, it will run via wall mounted conduit to a wet rated 15 amp outlet in a weatherproof box and I'm planning to wire in a LED panel light indicator in the outlet box mounted through a drilled hole and sealed with caulk so I can see if there's power on since code requires a GFCI that may trip. It's a non-critical area that doesn't backflow into the house so no alarm or back up power.

Thanks!
 

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CatchBasin1

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I have a small landscaped area that pools water and has some seepage from the groundwater. The sump pump is the Zoeller 108-0001 craw space kit with the M53 pump, slotted pit, and 1 1/2 inch connections, and I got the Zoeller 30-0181 check valve. They'll be arriving Friday and I want to make sure I have the materials and info to install it over the weekend.

I'm planning to use solid wall PVC pipe place of the flexible hose and want to run the sump outlet directly to 1. 1/2 inch solid wall pipe and want to transition to 2-inch pipe for the horizontal run to the street where it will drain. I also want crush resistance for burying under gravel and foot traffic so I'm using Sch 80 vs Sch 40 and know it may be overkill. The material I've assembled for the install are:

Sch 80 PVC
1 1/2 inch PVC (straight pipe, 45's and 90's)
2-inch PVC (straight pipe, 45's and 90's)

Fernco flex fittings
1 1/2 into 2 in coupling
1 1/2 in flex elbow
2 in flex elbow


For power, it will run via wall mounted conduit to a wet rated 15 amp outlet in a weatherproof box and I'm planning to wire in a LED panel light indicator in the outlet box mounted through a drilled hole and sealed with caulk so I can see if there's power on since code requires a GFCI that may trip. It's a non-critical area that doesn't backflow into the house so no alarm or back up power.

Thanks!
Backfill will determine how resistant your PVC will be to movement / breakage due to traffic & frost movement. Also if you have heavy clay, this can expand & contract with rain / drought events.
Idiot light would be nice but I've found a simple LED 'night lite' & GFI at the pump "house" ( glorified wishing well) + AFI at the panel is cheaper but does not prove pumping, just the circuit to pumps.
Flexible hose IMHO is a must as submersible pumps are not mounted & at startup the dance a bit with torque. Also in my case I have to contend with -20 *F & PVC in spring thaw & or rain on top of frozen ground can become a bit brittle at the threads yielding idiot light saying 'on' while pump is just recirculating water & not discharging to drain. I used flex ... rather heavy flex to the horizontal run.
Per code, you must encase your electric cables ... I use 3/4" PVC or larger unless cable is > 18" below grade (verify).
If possible, include a "sanitary cleanouts" so if silt builds up you can pressure wash the run.
You may want to make a catch basin. I use food grade 55 gallon drum + a zillion holes buried in pea rock + pump is on 3" concrete block. Protect basin from child / critter access.
Run should have 2* slope minimum.
There's always 10 ways to do anything. 5 are nice. 2 are really cool.
 

Dylan

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Thanks, that's very helpful. Idiot light is just to show there's power (GFIC hasn't tripped) so your solution is a good option. I have a receptacle GFCI's vs panel GFCI's and just want to know if GFIC has tripped. Motors and GFCI don't play well together but it's a code requirement here.

I do have a clean out I'll install at the start of the vertical run to the curb/ street. We have hard soil some clay and do get drought conditions but no frost/ freezing in Southern California so that helps.
 
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