Slip joint reliability and ferncos

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by adrianmariano, Jan 29, 2007.

  1. molo

    molo Member

    Sep 23, 2006
    Cold New York
    Trouble with Pedestal drain?

    Hello all,

    I recently installed a pedestal sink. The drain comes up from the floor. I noticed the picture that Rancher posted of the S-trap, and this is how the pedestal sink is trapped. It sounds like this is wrong. How can I trap this?

  2. markts30

    markts30 Commercial Plumber

    Sep 25, 2006
    Commercial Plumber
    Phoenix, AZ
    look at pantry to half bath conversion thread...
    Some suggestions on how to trap it...
    There are others as well - do a search on the forum for s-traps
  3. adrianmariano

    adrianmariano New Member

    Jan 5, 2007
    Reasonable Perfectionist: When you said you use a fernco to connect to the strainer basket with a tubular PVC tailpiece do you mean that you put one end of the fernco on the threaded part of the strainer basket and the other on the tailpiece?

    I'm planning to use the Kohler 8801 drain (which Rex Cauldwell recommends) which has a rubber washer instead of the plastic washer and it provides very little obstruction/crud catching potential. (It comes with a brass tailpiece.) I inspected another drain with the plastic washer and it seemed like the washer is huge, and would get dirty and trap dirt and be hard to clean. (And the washer blocks about 30% of the drainage space.)

    There seems to be a preference for end outlet waste over center outlet. Does this apply even if I have a 15" space between by drains? I believe the disposal is about 4" radius so I'd have an 11" run from the disposal to the end outlet baffle-T.

    In my case, over five years living with the existing setup which features an S-trap I have noticed every so often a bad odor coming from the sink. Not very often, but occasionally. I have been assuming that this must be a result of venting issues. Because we use the sink constantly the trap will presumably get refilled fairly soon if it gets siphoned empty, so this problem would tend to go away, as indeed it has. I figured an AAV would cure it completely...unless there's some other possible source for the odor. But why does the AAV need to be as high as possible? I thought it just had to be 4" above the water level.

    In my house I'm connecting to 50 year old 1 1/2" steel drain line, so I can't assume that I have totally clean 2" drain lines. (I got a look at the line when I replaced my utility sink, though, and it didn't look too bad.)
  4. adrianmariano

    adrianmariano New Member

    Jan 5, 2007
    Done at last

    I had been asked to post pictures of my kitchen sink after the work was completed. I had some trouble scheduling the work, but finally was able to tackle the job last weekend. Over all things went fairly smoothly, though rather slowly. I removed the old sink and test fit the new sink and found that the hole was the right size for the new sink. But the hot water supply was going to be in the way of the disposal.

    So I relocated the hot water supply and then glued down a piece of formica to protect the cabinet floor from future leaks. (The floor had taken some substantial water damage in the past and the particle board had suffered.)

    I did have one weird problem I didn't understand. I capped the 1/2" copper supply lines by soldering on caps. (I did this so I could turn the water back on while I was fitting and gluing down the formica because I didn't want to have to cut stop-valve sized holes in the formica.) When I went to remove those caps I heated the first one for a brief time and the cap popped right off. When I went to remove the second one it wouldn't come off, wouldn't come off. I kept heating more and trying to take it off and it wouldn't come off. Then the copper started to glow red and I still couldn't get it off. Finally I gave up and cut the pipe. So what could be the explanation for this?

    The sink (stainless steel Blanco) was the one troublesome thing. When I test fit it I noticed that it didn't sit flat on the counter but there was a small gap. I figured this gap would disappear when it was screwed down. When I went to screw it down I found that the counter top was too thick in the front and I had to cut out recesses for the clips. And then when I did screw it down, the gap did not entirely disappear, so I have a (caulk filled) gap maybe 1/16" at its largest. Is this normal?

    I was going to use an end outlet drain but when I started assembling it I thought there wasn't room for the trap. In retrospect I think it would have worked: I just needed to point the trap the other way. Hopefully the center outlet drain won't cause me any trouble. (People seem to prefer end outlet.)

    Thanks to everyone who replied to my questions in this forum.
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