Silt Problem passes filter

[FredC]

I have a silt problem..Fine sand.. I live in North Texas and have a 175 ft well with a a 1 HP submerssible that puts out 17 GPM (measured) and passes through an wel-X-trol 300 bladder tank. We used to get silt in the back of the toilet tanks but that pretty much cleared itself when I added a whole house filter, except at filter changes. The filters ussually last about 4 months and only the top of the line carbon style will filter the silt out. At filter change time the wash comes out dingy and it takes a couple of days to clear. It ios most noticeable at the washer, which is closest to theh tank, incidently. Can my bladder tank be full of sand?

Today I put a hose on the drain line from the tank and cycled the pump several times allowing the tank to drain in between cycles and saw dirt when the pump came on for a couple seconds. I the ran the pump for sever minutes with the drain open and everything cleared while running but not at pump start. Still dingy on the cold side but not the hot. Did I just stir everything up? The tank & house is about 8 years old. I put the whole house filter on about a year ago.

My neighbors don't seem to have an issue or aren't telling anyone. I have no issue with pressure or volume so I don't thinnk the weel is going dry. The well man doesn't seem that concerned if it can be filtered effectively without pressure loss. Most of the time it can but it is annoying. Is it possible I got a tank thats partially filled with sand or do I need to think about maybe raising the pump a few feet. Can I flush the bladder tank without hurting it?

Any suggestions? Thanks
FredC

 

[Bob NH]

You can take care of the contamination when changing filters by controlling the process, and perhaps by trying a different filter.

I assume that you already have ball valves on the inlet and outlet of the filter that are closed when the cartridge is changed. If you put a tee with a drain between the outlet side of the filter and the outlet shutoff valve you can flush the filter cartridge to waste until the water clears.

Some kinds of filters require a "ripening" process because the sediment collected in the filter actually improves the performance of the filter. You can achieve some of that "ripening" by running water to waste from the drain tee mentioned above.

If you don't need the organic-removal qualities of the carbon you can probably achieve what you need at a lower cost with a better sediment-filter.

If cartridge life is a concern you can increase the water supplied at end-of-life pressure loss by 50 to 80 percent by doubling the number of units in your setup. You will get at least 3 times the change interval by doubling the number of units.

Most carbon filters have a 5-micron prefilter, and the carbon filter probably adds some filtration performance. You might improve filtration if you can put in a 1-micron filter. Check the Harmsco links below. They are available to fit most housings and can be found at discounts from list prices.

http://www.harmsco.com/products.php

http://www.harmsco.com/pdf/Applications/All-Poly_Applications.pdf

http://www.harmsco.com/uploads/pdf/harmsco_801_cartridges.pdf

 

[Sponsor]

 

[FredC]

Filters

I do not have ball valves on the in and out side. I have one ball valve on the output side of the bladder tank that we turn off when we change filters. I have a GE large cannister filter 5 micron carbon filter mounted before the softener and the the pipe runs inside the house. I usually run a 5 gallon bucket of water to clean up the cannister with before turning off the water and changing the filter. I changed the filter last week when we noticed the water in the wash getting dingy. Usually we get a a pressure drop when its time to change the filter but not this time. Also, the water usually cleans up right after changiong the filter. The last filter I used was a resin bonded sediment filter that was 5 micron. I seem to have better luck with the carbon filters thoug , but they are expensive and we have never had organic issues of any kind even when unfiltered. The carbon ones seem to be the only ones that stop the silt. I will try some different filters this week.

I will get another filter this afternoon to put in to see if I can clear things up. Is there a possibilty my tank and pipes are sand-logged. If so, How can I clear them? Even after the filter change last week, the cold side is still dingy at all faucets. I let everything settle overnight and still the same result. I have a direct well connection off the sprinklers that is before the tank that I can isolate to see what the well is producing. I could bypass the tank and leave a few faucets open to attemp to clear any lines if that is necessary? Or should I just replace the filter and be patient? It is going to be warm today. Any ideas are appreciated? Thanks

Fred

 

[Bob NH]

The GE FXHSC cartridge (link below) is a 30 micron cartridge which isn't up to removing fine silt. The carbon is giving you silt removal.

http://www.filtersfast.com/fxhsc-whole-house-water-filter.asp

1-micron pleated cartridges would cost about half the cost of carbon cartridges and provide better service. I have never tried a 9 3/4" longer cartridge in a GE housing but most of them will compress enough to fit.

 

[Leejosepho]

I have read that carbon filters should only be used when there is chlorine to be removed since they can cause bacterial problems in its absence.

As already mentioned, having your filter(s) and a discharge spigot between valves is a nice setup. After closing those valves, I can change my filters, pressurize and fill them and run a little water through them without having to turn off the pump and de-pressurize the entire system or cycle the pressure tank.

At least for my own system, I have found it best to have two filters. My first one is a 10" housing with a 5 micron cartridge, and my second is a 20" housing with two .5 micron cartridges joined together. I have guages before and after each filter to watch for loss of flow, but I usually change the cartridges before that can become a problem.

Plain string-or-yarn-wound or poly cartridges do well for me without being expensive, and I buy them in bulk via online auction ... and usually at no more than about $2 each, including shipping.

 

[Speedbump]

What is this stuff you call silt one time and sand another?

Some people think their water is nasty when in fact there isn't a thing wrong with it. It sounds to me, like you have mineral build up and by messing with that joke of a filter you are simply stirring up the build up that naturally occurs on piping. If you really had a sand or silt problem, that carbon filter would more than likely plug up in a few days not 4 months or longer. Why don't you leave it out and try it for a while. I think you will agree that your water is fine.

Your softener would catch any sand that were in the system. (This is not a good idea to use one as a sand filter) If you really do have silt, it would not build up in a bladder tank but mineral will to an extent. Silt would be in the water all the time until filtered and would darken the waters clarity.

Trust me, if you had silt that was really a problem, that filter wouldn't last anywhere near as long as you say it does.

bob...

 

[Markts30]

Still dingy on the cold side but not the hot.

This is because the water heater is acting as a settling tank...
The silt etc you see in the cold water is in the hot as well - but settles out into the bottom of the tank...
When you have solved the silt issue - make sure you flush your heater - the "missing" silt is collecting there as well....

 

[Masterpumpman]

Silt Problem

When you replace the filter your pump may be over pumping your well for a short time or cycling until the system is all full again.

Over pumping a well or a pump cycling can cause sand/silt pumping for a time.

The reason the hot water is usually OK is that the sand/silt is settling in the bottom of the hot water tank.

Your hydrodynamic tank is probably OK because most of what goes in comes back out.

If you like constant pressure (like city pressure) you may want to check out www.cyclestopvalves.com. It may sound like I'm pushing Cycle Stop Valves. . . and I am! I work for Cycle Stop Valves and I am sold on their product. Try it I promise that you're wife will like it!