Sillcock leak; threaded or soldered?

[masterprocrastinator]

Hello, I am a homeowner who knows nearly nothing about plumbing. I have 2 sillcocks (didn't know that term before researching the issue) that leak when turned on - no leak when off. I'm not at home at the moment but I believe the leak is from the handle as when I have a hose attached & the water on, water drips down the hose. I don't know the brand of faucet/sillcock & I cannot remember if it has a vacuum thing on top (assume frost-free, don't know); the house is approx. 20 years old. I have tightened the packing nut in the past which helped temporarily but it appears as though I need to replace the packing nut washer or possibly the washer at the end of the stem. I have found guides on how to do that but I keep reading allusions to: "stem may be soldered on", "get out my torch", etc. I have no torch nor soldering equipment at hand & am terrified if I remove the sillcock I will break something & be unable to turn water back on in the house (wife & children need sinks, toilets) or worse, cause an interior leak, until it is fixed.

After that ramble, my question is this: After removing handle & packing nut, how do I know if the sillcock is threaded in or soldered on? Should the stem unscrew or just slide out? Give the stem a gentle counter-clockwise turn & if it doesn't move stop & call a professional?

I am ignorant of 95% of the terms you experts are using here when addressing other's leaky sillcock questions, so please spell it out (I thank you dearly in advance). However, I am a quick learner & have a toolbox full of the basics (including teflon tape).

 

[hj]

The "soldered or threaded" refers to how it is attached to the house. But, as a practical matter, FEW hose bibbs are repairable unless you find another one EXACTLY like it and take the pieces you need from it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Does your sillcock look like this?

That one is not frost free. The frost free units have a foot-long shaft, so the shaft would be horizontal, rather than angled like that one.

Can you access the other side of the unit from the crawl space or basement? That is where you will see what is going on.

For just dealing with the leak you described, remove the packing nut, and replace the packing.

https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...g-how-to-replace-FU-SAN-frost-proof-sillcocks may have some info for you.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

Does your sillcock look like this?

That one is not frost free. The frost free units have a foot-long shaft, so the shaft would be horizontal, rather than angled like that one.

Can you access the other side of the unit from the crawl space or basement? That is where you will see what is going on.

For just dealing with the leak you described, remove the packing nut, and replace the packing.

https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...g-how-to-replace-FU-SAN-frost-proof-sillcocks may have some info for you.

No, it looks more like the diagram in the link you posted. Control knob is in line with the stem & only the spout is at an angle. Yes, I have access; though I don't recall seeing anything specific (separate shut-offs, etc.) to do w/the water lines where that sillcock is located, but I will have to look again to be certain.

I will certainly begin by replacing the packing/washer at the packing nut. Is this a universal item I should be able to find at your typical hardware store & have on hand before dismantling or is it easier to disassemble first & go looking for what is needed, parts in hand?

However, should I need to remove/replace the entire sillcock, my question remains. Should it unscrew or slide out? If it does neither, what are my options?

Thank you for your response.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

The "soldered or threaded" refers to how it is attached to the house. But, as a practical matter, FEW hose bibbs are repairable unless you find another one EXACTLY like it and take the pieces you need from it.

If that is the case, is there anything specific I should look for in a replacement? I've seen Woodford tossed around a bit. Will an anti-siphon, frost free Woodford sillcock for around $30-45 serve my needs (watering lawn, filling inflatable swimming pools) & last 10+ years?

Again, what are issues to be aware of when removing existing sillcock?

Thank you for your response.

 

[NHmaster3015]

Yep, that's what you want. Mansfield and others make then too.

 

[Reach4]

No, it looks more like the diagram in the link you posted. Control knob is in line with the stem & only the spout is at an angle. Yes, I have access; though I don't recall seeing anything specific (separate shut-offs, etc.) to do w/the water lines where that sillcock is located, but I will have to look again to be certain.

So very probably frost free. Good.

I will certainly begin by replacing the packing/washer at the packing nut. Is this a universal item I should be able to find at your typical hardware store & have on hand before dismantling or is it easier to disassemble first & go looking for what is needed, parts in hand?

Parts in hand. Replacing the washer while you are at it seems worthwhile.

However, should I need to remove/replace the entire sillcock, my question remains. Should it unscrew or slide out? If it does neither, what are my options?

.
I am not a pro... I think we can eliminate slide out. It could be soldered I guess. If it screws out, the unit would be turned CCW to unscrew. Better get info from somebody who knows what he is doing before pulling out the pipe wrench.

So can you not look at the inside end of this unit? Is there an inside finished wall on the other side?

 

[masterprocrastinator]

Parts in hand. Replacing the washer while you are at it seems worthwhile. .

So there is a universal packing nut packing/washer that can be easily found at retail outlets?

So can you not look at the inside end of this unit? Is there an inside finished wall on the other side?

At one of the sillcocks the area is unfinished. What am I to look for?

 

[Reach4]

So there is a universal packing nut packing/washer that can be easily found at retail outlets?

At one of the sillcocks the area is unfinished. What am I to look for?

Universal is valve packing which looks like thick string. You wrap it around the stem and tighten the packing nut. Using the right amount is something that would come better with experience. You may find you have a different kind of packing there like a washer. Your Ace Hardware may be able to match that up. http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing/N-5yc1vZbqew/Ntk-All/Ntt-packing?Ntx=mode+matchall&NCNI-5

If it solders in, that should be obvious. If you see a pipe that goes into a fitting without solder, and the fitting is secured to not be damaged by your unscrewing, that would indicate you could grab the pipe wrench and start twisting CCW. However fixing packing is going to be cheaper, and there is no worry about getting the right length.

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?50637-Leaky-Sillcock-Soldered-or-Threaded

 

[Quarterball]

Are you able to supply a picture? There should be markings on the body (the end near the hose connection) that will help identify the manufacturer. Once identified, we may be able to direct you to factory replacement parts and you may avoid replacing the entire unit.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

Ok, they are both Priers. Fortunately there is a Plumbing supply store nearby that carries Prier.



On a side note, is there any way to better attach these to the siding? Obviously they are poorly fastened to the house.

 

[JerryR]

Check out these 2 Prier YouTube videos. Perhaps one of these is the solution to your problem.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

The leak is definitely coming from the vacuum breaker on both. Of course that plumbing supply store is closed on the weekends & according to their online database, no other stores have them in stock near me. Was hoping to get this taken care of tomorrow but it looks like it will have to wait. Thank you all.

 

[Quarterball]

Call these people. Open Sat until 1:00. Should have everything you need.

http://www.plumbersfriendkc.com

 

[Reach4]

The leak is definitely coming from the vacuum breaker on both.

I am pretty sure the packing will not help that.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

The vacuum breaker replacement parts didn't resolve the leak. I now have the stem removed (not soldered) but I can't get the handle off the stem to replace the packing. I removed the screw but the handle won't simple pull off like in the videos. Is it rusted/fused to the stem (no visible evidence)? Will I damage it by gently tapping with a hammer to remove it? Obviously I can't replace the packing without removing the handle/knob.

 

[masterprocrastinator]

Hmm, that would have been nice. I was able to remove them with wd-40 & a mallet.

The leak from the handle is fixed, but one of them still leaks some from the vacuum breaker. I put teflon tape on the threads & tightened it as much as I dare, but it still leaks (brand new pieces). Thoughts? Why are those plastic threading into metal?

Also, the repair kit came with this rubber gasket but I don't know what it is for & I didn't find a matching item on the existing sillcock, nor was there an obvious place it fit.

Sorry for the blurry photo, my camera wasn't focusing for some reason.

 

[Jadnashua]

To get that close with the camera, you usually have to turn on the macro mode...the icon often is something like the outline of a flower, but that is camera dependent.

Except on tapered pipe threads, adding tape or pipe dope will CAUSE a leak, not prevent it. If you got OEM repair parts, you may want to call the manufacturer on Monday and ask where that gasket is supposed to go, or, see if there is a parts breakdown on their website for some guidance.

 

[Smooky]

I think it is #10 “Backflow Check Valve” it goes near the end of the stem

http://www.prier.com/images/stories/documents/specs/C-144-G.pdf

 

[masterprocrastinator]

I see. I've looked at that breakdown a number of times but missed it every time, thank you. Fortunately that photo at the bottom shows where it fits.

And thank you all for your assistance, especially on a holiday.