Shower surround installation question

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Mike from Brier, Jul 4, 2005.

  1. Mike from Brier

    Mike from Brier New Member

    Jul 4, 2005
    Brier, WA
    We have a tile walled shower stall with a fiberglass pan in our main bath. The pan is in excellent shape, but the tile doesn't work for us. Is it okay to install a 3-piece fiberglass surround over the tile, or must the tile be removed first? Will the adhesive stick to the tile? One manufacturer I found says not to do this, and others have not said one way or another. Thanks!
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Sep 2, 2004
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    New England
    The biggest hassle would be getting the tile clean enough (all of the sealer, soap scum, etc) off for an adhesive to stick. If you could be sure of that, then you could probably find an adhesive that would work. You'd need one thatwould stick to the glaze on the tile - maybe a good silicon? My unprofessional opinion.
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  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Aug 31, 2004
    Cave Creek, Arizona

    Most of the stick on surrounds do not have a "bull nose" edge that would wrap around the tile where it ends at the wall, so those tile lines would still be visible after the surround was installed.
  5. Master Plumber Mark

    Master Plumber Mark Master Plumber

    Feb 6, 2005
    Sensitivity trainer.. plumber of mens souls
    indianapolis indiana - land of the free, home of
    wall surround adhesives.

    You can glue directly onto the tile ,

    all it has to be is dry and clean

    DO NOT use the liquid nail brand of bath adhesive....

    the stuff is terrible and seems to actually warp the plastic

    surround , it takes a few days to actually see the damage

    I have ruined a few this way and learned the hard way not

    to use the stuff..

    the best stuff I have found that seems to be very easy to
    use is clear dap ALEX siliconized caluk 35 year warranty

    possibly get a few tubes of silicone too for around the
    very outside edjes of the plastic to make it more water proof.

    just lay it on thick and you cant go wrong.
  6. Mike from Brier

    Mike from Brier New Member

    Jul 4, 2005
    Brier, WA
    Thanks everyone!

    Appreciate all the feedback. One related question: Can I butt the edges of the panels to the door framework and then caulk as usual, or is it recommended that I remove the door and frame, then install the panels, and reinstall the door over the top?

    The reason I ask is because of the lack of the bullnose that hj mentioned. The existing tiles actually protrude out from the door frame, and I can live with them being exposed outside the door, especially if I don't have to pull out the door/frame. I suppose if it's a better installation to install the door over the panels, I could just trim them flush with the outside edge of the frame and caulk the exterior joint, thus leaving the tiles exposed anyway. That way the bullnose wouldn't matter...

    Thoughts anyone?
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