Shallow well by lake

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Chucky_ott

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Success...sort of.

I managed to drive the sand point 8ft deep easily enough (reminder that water table is at 3ft). Unfortunately, the drive coupling didn't prevent the threads from being damaged. I did not have a drive cap so I used a second drive coupling at the top of the drop pipe. I pounded directly on the drive coupling. The pipe buckled midway through the threads where the coupling ended. I'm hoping that the coupling at the sandpoint fared better. I guess I'll never know. Maybe the fact that it was a continuous-weld pipe from the big-box store had something to do with it.

Anyways, I used a flexible rubber coupling to attach a check valve to the drop pipe. I attached a hand pump to the check valve. Got water after just a few strokes. Very muddy at first but cleared up after a minute or so. At the end of the season, I'll connect my jet pump to the pipe to flush and develop the well. Hopefully I'll get clear water. If I do, I'll have it tested. I'm connecting a U/V filter anyways.

Any reason why I can't use the flexible coupling as a permanent fix? If I can borrow/rent a 1-1/4" pipe threader, I'll eventually try to fix it.
 

Banjo Bud

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I’ve used a rubber coupling on an intake pipe before. Didn’t work. It blew apart right after the pump stopped pulling water.
 

Chucky_ott

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I'm putting it on the drop pipe before the check valve so it will only see negative pressure when the pump is working. If it was between the check valve and the pump, it would be at 60 psi, and that is probably not a good idea. Anyways, it will probably be a temporary fix until I can find a ratchet pipe threader.
 

Chucky_ott

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Figured I'd provide an update. Well has been working great for the past month or so. Water is crystal clear. Will get it tested for e-coli next spring. I'll also pour a concrete pad around the pipe.

Because of the damaged threads, I had to use a coupling to attach the check valve. No issues so far and it has held prime fine.

The two tees at the bottom are just there to provide stiffness to the PVC drop pipe. I used a drum sander to ream out the inside of the tees so that it could slip over the 1-1/4" pipe. I know I could have used saddle fittings but I could not find them locally.
 

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Chucky_ott

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On a related note, if water were to freeze inside the pipe, how likely is it to burst?

I removed the check valve for the winter and the water level in the pipe is about 12" below grade. It can easily get to -30°C here and the frost line is about 3 or 4 ft.

To make sure nothing happens this winter, I stuck a piece of foam pipe insulation INSIDE the pipe. It won't prevent freezing obviously but hopefully it will allow the water to expand without busting the pipe.
 

Reach4

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On a related note, if water were to freeze inside the pipe, how likely is it to burst?
I would expect high. That's Ontario, Canada, right? Can't you blow the water out before serious freezing?

The two tees at the bottom are just there to provide stiffness to the PVC drop pipe. I used a drum sander to ream out the inside of the tees so that it could slip over the 1-1/4" pipe.
I presume something plugs the side leg of the water-carrying tee.
 

Chucky_ott

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Can't you blow the water out before serious freezing

Yes, Ontario. The level in the pipe is at the water table. So can't really blow it out without having it blow back in.

I presume something plugs the side leg of the water-carrying tee.

No. I reamed out the two tees so that they slip over the PVC and the metal pipes. For the PVC drop pipe, it's one full piece from the top 90 to the bottom 90. No water flow to the tee.
 

Reach4

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I would consider getting some Molykote 111, or maybe even silicone vacuum grease, for the threads of that threaded plug. The purpose is to prevent small vacuum leaks. Foam shaving cream on joints can disclose vacuum leaks while you are pumping.
 

LLigetfa

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On a related note, if water were to freeze inside the pipe, how likely is it to burst?
Odds are high that it could burst but placing a closed-cell foam insulation inside to displace some of the water might help but there is also a chance that the freezing ground will exert force on the pipe.

I would erect some snow fence in a circle around the well and then put straw inside the circle. The snow fence should capture drifting snow and keep the snow from getting scoured away. It would also deter snowmobiles from driving over the well.
 
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