Septic Pump

[moisheh]

We are new to country living and have never had to contend with a septic system. Our house is now 11 years old. 4 months after we moved in the septic pump smoked itself to death. Our plumber changed the pump. The original was quite small and sure looks like a cheap sump pump. He installed a Red Lion ( actually made by Little Giant). The box was marked sewage pump. I think it was 1/3 HP. It has a separate float. Wotan 45 weeks I was walking past the tank and heard gurgling. The pump was still running but the water side of the tank was dry. Plumber replaced the float switch but told me that he thinks the septic system has a blockage??? The pump as running but not pumping. We were away when he did this work and when I returned it as running and not pumping. But with an hour or 2 it started working fine. The fellow who pumps out the tanks say that Red Lion are problematic and he recommends a LIberty pump. Is he correct? Should I just bite the bullet and change the pump? Why would a pump be so erratic? Could the line to the field have a blockage?

Thanks

Moisheh

 

[Jerome2877]

It sounds like the field may be failing. By failing I mean its not allowing the fluids to percolate into the soil. So this is causing your pump to run continuously. You could make sure the pump is working by first unpluging it, then disconnecting the discharge pipe and pluging it back in.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[moisheh]

Jerome: If the field were failing wouldnt this happen all the time? The pump has now been working correctly for 3 days. Comes on when floats switch rises and then turns off. I am not familiar with how fields fail but I thought that when the soil cannot take any more liquids the waste water rises to the top of the field???

Thanks

 

[Redwood]

I suspect that the plumber that installed the pump did not drill a required hole in the discharge pipe.
When the float switch failed and the pump sucked the tank dry it became air-bound and lost its prime until the tank filled enough that the pressure of the water level in the tank overcame the air bubble and the pump started working again.

A lot of pumps require a 3/16" hole in the discharge pipe to prevent them from becoming air-bound when pumped dry.
Have him come back and do it right. I would have never left the job without seeing the pump actually pumping....

The seals of the pump have probably lost some of their life by being dry run so long.

 

[moisheh]

Thank you Redwood: Actally when he first installed the pump it did work and he was here until it cycled about 4 times. The problem occured afterwards. I will look into that required hole.

 

[Ballvalve]

Yes, failing of the leach does not have anything to do with this dry pumping. I would try Zoeller pumps - have a look at Ira Woods supply. Drill the hole as shown on the manual with the pump, but I would definitely not use 3/16" on effluent, especially if any head or pressure involved. Maybe thats needed on a grinder type pump. Your seperate float may be "hanging" up. I would watch its operation closely. Is the pump within a screened chamber? I set septic pumps in the tanks second chamber within a slotted pipe or purchased screened device.

You can make a self cleaning hole with a 1/8" bit and a tiny stainless steel cotter pin inserted from inside and bent over on the outside. But you still have to get your floats to work right.

 

[moisheh]

I have been watching the float and it appears to be working just fine. I cannot tell if there is a releif hole or even a check valve. No valve is visible. We have guests and since Friday there has been lots of showers, laundry, dish washer, etc. So far everything is fine. We live on a gravel ridge and the drainage is amazing. The home and the field is only 11 years old. First owners were an old couple, then for 2 years a mom and 2 kids with the occasional visit from the dad. Looking at the raised area over the field it appears large enough. The first pump looked more like a cheap sump pump! The Red Lion is a large cast iron pump. The tank has a divider that is made out of some sort of heavy thick plastic. No screen on the effluent side.

Thanks

 

[Redwood]

Yes, failing of the leach does not have anything to do with this dry pumping. I would try Zoeller pumps - have a look at Ira Woods supply. Drill the hole as shown on the manual with the pump, but I would definitely not use 3/16" on effluent, especially if any head or pressure involved. Maybe thats needed on a grinder type pump. Your seperate float may be "hanging" up. I would watch its operation closely. Is the pump within a screened chamber? I set septic pumps in the tanks second chamber within a slotted pipe or purchased screened device.

You can make a self cleaning hole with a 1/8" bit and a tiny stainless steel cotter pin inserted from inside and bent over on the outside. But you still have to get your floats to work right.

I would do whatever the pump manufacturer specifies in the instructions. The hole is usually needed if a check valve is used...
Page 3 Recommendation #4 https://app.qleapahead.com/rtp/libraryget.aspx?asset=92519,63

 

[Ballvalve]

Notice they say the hole is not needed if no check involved, so he probably does not and should not have it. They want a 3/16 hole so its less likely to plug, but notice they want you to clean it periodically. Lets take a survey and see how many homeowners clean a hole in their pipe in the muck pit. A 3/16 hole can flow a lot of water especially with a high head pump. A smaller hole with a cotter pin vibrating in the flow is self cleaning and increases efficiency. Its an old "trick" thats quite reliable, but no pump mfg. wants to bother bringing it up. Commonly used on hydraulic rams.