Rough in confusion

[Mort]

Greetings all. Not sure I grasp how rough in measurements effect the position of the toilet. I own a 3 bath home (built in 1986) and all three measure differently...one at 12", one at 9 1/2" and the third at 11 1/2". The 12" fixture seems a no brainer and I can put in most anything. The one that measures 11 1/2" has the tank hitting the wall...to the point that the builder put rubber bumpers behind the tank. If I purchase a toilet with a 10" rough in will this make the problem worse? I have no idea what the original toilet fixture was.... 3 1/2 gallon American Standard that's 20 years old. Just trying to get my thinking straight as to which was things move.

Thanks

Mort

 

[Terry]

You are looking at
2- 12" toilets
1- 10" toilet

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Markts30]

I agree with Terry - you should have a bit of play in the WC flange holes and the china holes - enough to get the 10" WC on the 9-1/2" rough in (same as the 12" on the 11-1/2" rough in)

 

[Mort]

Thanks. That makes two easy. The 10" (at least with Toto) is going to take some thinking as the water supply is only about six inches off center and from what (little) I understand, with the skirted units I'm going to need about eight inches. I hate the idea of having to cut in to the drywall to move the valve but I guess that's likely my only option.....at least with the Toto skirted toilets.

Mort

 

[Terry]

Most of the skirted ones, the water supply needs to be 7" to the left.
It can be 6" with the Soiree

 

[Mort]

Most of the skirted ones, the water supply needs to be 7" to the left.
It can be 6" with the Soiree

So I guess that their "spec" drawings that show 8" are more towards the ideal than necessary. That'd be great as the Soiree was the one that Mrs Mort really wanted. Does the DC flushing system work as good (or better) than the G-Max? These would be on a second story and I want to keep water in the pipes with as close to zero clogs as possible.

Thanks again