ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
PM sent.
That is not a Clack or Fleck screen, my guess it is some really inexpensive screen, it is likely simply flexing under flow allowing the resin to pass right through it. This is why we push so hard on quality over saving $1 by using a cheap screen. In all reality the screen is not important except when you suddenly get really cold water... as you are finding out. I would recommend replacing the DLFC button with a smaller button, replace the top screen with a good quality one, and check your resin level. it should be about 2/3 full.
The drain line is 1/2” 75 ft long. We went from 2.7 to 2.2 per suggestion from this forum to avoid resin loss during backwash , if you look at few posts before with 2.7 DLFC, I had around 2.2 - 2.5.What is the length and diameter of the drain line? How does this drain rate compare if measured nearby to the control valve?
If the nearby measurement is 2.2 GPM, then look for a restriction in the drain line extension or if no restriction present, you may need to increase the diameter of the extension.
I have 2/3 of the tank full of resin.You should be fine as it is. Leave the 2.2 in. Did you check the resin level?
doesn't matter which way you do it. you're just looking for a specific flow at the end of the backwash line.So does this mean I am not getting enough GPM drain with current drain line setup to backwash properly? Should I put the 2.7 back in? I guess the right way to do it is to keep the 2.2 DLFC in and change the drain line to 3/4 but that will be a major project with bunch of yard digging and pulling a new PVC pipe all the way.
Perfect, all should be fine. Perfect backwashing of resin is less critical than most people will admit. If you consider the earliest automatic regenerating valves only had an upflow brine/slow rinse cycle, no backwash, no rapid rinse, no timed refill... these systems actually lasted very well under reasonable water conditions.I have 2/3 of the tank full of resin.