Replacing a hot water circulator

[Austin83]

I’m a DIY, and my hot water circulator started buzzing and causing noise in my pipes. Looks like I’ll be replacing it, and I’ve never dealt with a circulator or the flange connections it uses, and I wanted to consult with the experts before replacing it. I plan on swapping it with the same make and model so I just have to drop the new one in. I saw the instructions stated “Air should be vented from the system by means of an air vent located at a high point in the system.” Exactly how do I go about doing this? I have two 5o gallon hot water heaters in my attic and the circulator is connected to a pipe coming from the second heater’s drain. Anything else I should know before attempting the swap? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Austin

 

[Jadnashua]

Is this used for heating, or for your domestic hot water supply?

If it's your domestic hot water supply, the pump should be either stainless steel or bronze. If it's for heating, it can be a less expensive iron body as is usually used in hydronic heating system. The reason is, potable water will have some dissolved oxygen in it, and that will cause the iron bodied one (and impeller) to rust fairly quickly.

If it's domestic, it should purge itself quickly just by running a tap.

If it's heating, there may be a valve at the top with a drain. Hard to say without seeing the system. The isolation valves before and after the pump should limit the amount of draining and air that can get into the system when you replace it. That's if they aren't frozen, which was the case last time I needed to use them on my unit...I ended up having to replace them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Austin83]

It circulates the hot water at my home. It is bronze according to the description for the new one on. Here is the exact one that I have.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-103252LF-1-25-HP-NBF-22-Bronze-Circulator-Pump-Lead-Free

I tried the shut off valves already, they were tight, and they took a little extra leverage, but they are good to go after working them a little.

Is this used for heating, or for your domestic hot water supply?

If it's your domestic hot water supply, the pump should be either stainless steel or bronze. If it's for heating, it can be a less expensive iron body as is usually used in hydronic heating system. The reason is, potable water will have some dissolved oxygen in it, and that will cause the iron bodied one (and impeller) to rust fairly quickly.

If it's domestic, it should purge itself quickly just by running a tap.

If it's heating, there may be a valve at the top with a drain. Hard to say without seeing the system. The isolation valves before and after the pump should limit the amount of draining and air that can get into the system when you replace it. That's if they aren't frozen, which was the case last time I needed to use them on my unit...I ended up having to replace them.

 

[MACPLUMB]

You can give me a call will explain
Retired Master Plumber with a PHD in Water Heaterolgy