Removing Toilet Flange

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Baron

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Is there a way to remove a toilet flange from the attached ABS(i.e. cut it off in pieces)?


I think is an outside flange.

OR would it just be easier to replace a piece of ABS with new elbow and new flange?
 

Jadnashua

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If you have access (an inside cutter may be used), it may be quicker to just replace that section. But, if you are careful, and have access, you might be able to make cuts and peel off a fitting. It's more of a welded joint than a glue joint. You need to clean it up before you can install a new fitting or pipe, or you may not get it to seat. Also, splitting or cracking is possible while trying to pry the bits apart.
 

Baron

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Thanks.

I might give it a shot and see how it goes -- otherwise, I'll just replace the whole thing.

If I go the replace route -- I'll need to find some ABS. I know Home Depot doesn't sell it-- they only have PVC.

The resident plumber at Home Depot told me not to attach PVC to ABS-- it was against code in our county -- If we were to sell our house and an inspector saw it -- they would make us replace it.
 

Redwood

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A no-hub, banded fernco, or, mission coupling may be used to transition from ABS to PVC.
 

Jadnashua

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If you have access from below, you can cut off the abs and use a no-hub connector and attach to pvc, but the glues to connect dissimilar plastics is probably not a good idea.
 

Baron

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I'll look for the ABS -- if unavailable -- the Fernco sounds like a good way to go.

Thanks.
 

Gary Swart

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It must be a local thing with your HD not selling ABS. Be that as it may be, you can not connect PVC to ABS with a solvent welded coupling because they do not have the same chemical make up. Many people use the term "Fernco" to refer to any kind of sleeve coupler. Fernco is a brand name, and a very good one, but you want to be sure to use a no-hub or banded coupler and not just the slip on neoprene. Although somewhat similar, the banded coupler will provide a more ridged joint. The neoprene sleeve is only approved for underground applications where the soil will provide the support.
 

Baron

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I just checked with my local Lowes -- they said they have ABS.

Don't know why HD doesn't have it.
 

Baron

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Here are some pics of the repair.

Went together pretty well -- nice that Lowes had all the ABS parts I needed.

I only needed 3.5" of ABS --- but had to buy 10'.
Oh well -- I'll hold onto it -- might need it another day.
 

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Jadnashua

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Now that you went to all that trouble, why didn't you wait to install the flange and put it on top of the finished floor where it should be!? Anchor it well to the subfloor, but it would have been perfect on top of the new floor.
 

hj

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flange

You went to the trouble of repiping to the flange. Now why would you even consider installing an all plastic flange which could make you do it again someday? And why do you need a spacer instead of installing the flange to the proper elevation in the first place?
 

Baron

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I just have the flange sitting there-- I haven't attached yet.

I'm either going to install as is with flange spacer or replace the subflooring and and not use the spacer.

Right now -- adding the hardibacker board and tile (with flange spacer) the flange will be even with the tile.

Now why would you even consider installing an all plastic flange which could make you do it again someday?

You recommend a metal flange instead?
 

Jadnashua

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Don't use the spacer, install the cbu and extra subflooring THEN install the flange. Notch the tile so you don't have to drill through it. The flange is designed to be supported by the FINISHED floor, not be embedded in the floor. You may need to make the riser slightly longer, but you have the rest of the 10' piece. Keep in mind that the pipe into the fittings is an interference fit...you may not have the pieces bottomed out in the fittings. WHen you add the glue, it both lubricates and slightly disolves the plastic, allowing you to insert the pipe all the way to the stop in the fitting. It is really easy to get a dry fit to end up short if you don't account for that.
 

Baron

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Don't use the spacer, install the cbu and extra subflooring THEN install the flange. Notch the tile so you don't have to drill through it. The flange is designed to be supported by the FINISHED floor, not be embedded in the floor.

The flange should set on top of the tile?
 

Baron

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HJ-

Where can I get an ABS Flange with a metal ring (preferably stainless) on-line ?
 

Jadnashua

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Toilet flanges are designed to sit on top of the finished floor...doesn't matter what kind of floor it is. There are lots that aren't; doesn't make it right.
 

Redwood

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Definitely go with a stainless steel ring flange and mount it in top of the finished floor! Big blue here has stainless stell ringed ABS flanges.
 

Baron

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Toilet flanges are designed to sit on top of the finished floor...doesn't matter what kind of floor it is. There are lots that aren't; doesn't make it right.

If I'm going to go through all the trouble of redoing the flange -- I want to do it right.

I'm glad I didn't glue the flange.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions and ideas.
 

Baron

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I was out at Lowes talking to one of their plumbing dept people.

They were telling me that the toilet flange is supposed to fit inside the pipe and not outside.:confused:

And recommended one that would fit inside a 3" pipe --
I don't think this is good practice -- is it?

The reason I was there -- I installed a 90 degree elbow (see pics) and am going to come up around 2" to 2-1/2" short after I install cbu and tile.

I guess it's my fault for installing a 90 degree street elbow instead of installing a standard 90 elbow.

Any ideas for extemding or should I just go ahead and replace the section of abs again and install a standard 90 elbow and just add 3" abs pipe as needed to get the proper length to attach the closet flange?
 
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