Removing Laundry Tub

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by hormy_83, Feb 22, 2008.

  1. hormy_83

    hormy_83 New Member

    Feb 22, 2008
    Hey guys, I'm Nick.

    I've got a question on a project I hope to finish up this weekend. I'm in the middle of a kitchen/laundry room remodel. While doing this my wife decided it would be better to remove the laundry tub and instead put a cabinet and counter there.

    So I am going to install a standpipe for the washer to drain into and run the supply lines through the wall all built into an Oatey washing machine outlet box. This will all be directly behind where the washer goes instead of off the left where it is now for the wash tub.

    My drain pipes are all copper currently in this location and are 1.5 inches. My standpipe I'm going to make out of 2 inch PVC and I plan on having that connect in the basement to some 3 inch drainage that is directly below it (also PVC). Since this is brand new I won't have any vent - so I plan on venting this by having it connect to the 1.5 inch copper 4 feet or so above the floor (my house is a ranch - so the existing copper is all vent above the P trap for the laundry sink). I figured 1.5 inch vent is fine for a 2 inch drain. This copper for my laundry sink is about 3 feet to the left of where my new standpipe will be.

    The main questions I have is what is the best way to connect my PVC vent to the copper? I'm thinking of cutting the copper and installing a 1.5 inch copper T in that and soldering it in place. The guy at Home Depot said I could then just solder a male or female copper end to the T and then screw PVC to that and finish making all my connections. Is that acceptable - or would something like a Fernco Fitting be better, or something else? If I just screw the PVC to the copper I am assuming I would not need any pipe dope or anything - right?

    And also I am undecided about having my P trap for my standpipe just above floor level in the wall or just below floor level in the basement. But either way I was thinking of having the standpipe extend 30 inches or so above the trap. Is that a good height for it - or does it need to be longer or shorter?

  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Sep 2, 2004
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    New England
    There's a section in the code that specifies the height of the stand pipe riser for a washing machine. I don't remember, but if you search a little here, it has been mentioned many times. You don't really want the trap below the floor. Any threaded tapered connections you make need either pipe dope or teflon tape to seal them. You could use a no-hub connection to make the copper to pvc junction, or install a female theaded socket and then put a male threaded fitting on the pvc. The no-hub is faster and easier (but might cost a little more).
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  4. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Aug 23, 2005
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)
    Columbus, OH
    I would bet that the no hub would cost less than a threaded copper fitting. Last time I checked a 1/2" male sweat x male NPT copper fitting was over $5! It was pretty weighty and a 1/2" female sweat x male NPT was only a couple bucks. Obviously a 2" fitting is going to be more than a 1/2" either way. If he went with the later option he'd need a piece of 2" copper to make the connection to the tee, so count that in as well.

    Personally, I would hack out a section of the 2" stack and install two no hub couplings around a section of 3" PVC containing a 3x3x2 wye and go from there.

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