Removing a PB connection

[Shoes]

Hey folks, first time post.

I am going to replace my house Polybutylene with PEX. I am on a well. The previous owner had a small section near the intake replaced when they installed a water filter, I will do the rest of the house to be PB free.

My question relates to a section of PB coming off the bladder. They replaced most of the PB with Pex at the intake except the first couple of feet by the bladder (not sure why?). This will be the first thing I replace. My question is regarding where this PB connects to the bladder at the bottom, near the floor (not the connection to the PEX): Do I use a crimp cutting tool to remove the copper crimp around the PB where it attaches to the bladder, or should I remove that fitting that it is crimped to (it has the form of a nut)? Im not sure what Im looking at.

My plumbing lingo is limited, be kind

Two pictures. Here is the high level view, where you can see the two feet of PB which runs from the bladder to the white PEX:

The second image is the close up of the connection to the bladder. How would you remove this final PB connection?

Thanks for the help.
Shoes

 

[Terry]

The fittings should match the PEX that you buy.
They may have different ID sizing.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Shoes]

The fittings should match the PEX that you buy.
They may have different ID sizing.

I think you may have misunderstood or misread my question. I am asking about how to best remove that last connection. Should I cut the old crimp or remove the fitting that it is attached to, at the bladder.

 

[Terry]

Since the new PEX needs a new fitting, you remove the old fitting and go with the new.

 

[Reach4]

I would not change it until you change the tank. But if you do, I would cut the PB with a hacksaw etc. Then uses two big wrenches. If you had open end, or closed end, great. Big Crescents? Yep that works (rotate toward the movable jaw). Hold the big hex above the valve with the biggest wrench to counter the littler wrench, and turn the smaller big hex on the PB fitting counterclockwise with the littler wrench.

Don't forget to turn off the pump and drain the pressure first.

But why stop there? I would be more eager to get rid of the galvanized. PB is said to fail because of chlorine in the water, and I presume you don't have chlorine in the water... although some people do have chlorine dispensers dropping chlorine into the well casing.

 

[Shoes]

I may understand what you are saying, my mistake - you are saying that the PB is connected to a fitting, and that it should itself be replaced. That was my misunderstanding. I wasnt even sure if what it was crimped to was a fitting or a permanent component.

I did not immediately process the ID reference, as you are saying that the pex needs to terminate to a proper connector - so what I am looking at is pipe specific and can indeed be removed.

 

[Terry]

The PB insert fitting will unthread from the IP shutoff.

 

[Shoes]

@Reach4 I suppose I didnt want to have to replace it if I didnt have to. That section of galvanized coming off the pump is the only section in the house. Is there reason I should replace it?

You are correct though, I have no chlorine. And the fittings on the PB are all copper (house was built 1996).

Shoes

 

[Shoes]

@Terry - got it, thanks for confirming that. That gives me relief. Sorry I didnt immediately understand

 

[Reach4]

@Reach4 I suppose I didnt want to have to replace it if I didnt have to. That section of galvanized coming off the pump is the only section in the house. Is there reason I should replace it?

Galvanized adds rust to your water. Old galvanized adds a lot less than new galvanized however. Galvanized passing hard water is not as much of a problem as galvanized passing soft water. I think I see rust on the pressure switch nipple threads also. It kinda looks like the big galvanized nipple is screwed into a galvanized elbow, but maybe that is brass with some white stuff on it.

I would not replace any of it now, but if you did, I would be looking at brass for the pressure switch nipple and brass, CPVC or PEX for other stuff. I am not a pro.

 

[Shoes]

Complete! I swapped it out. I appreciate the help! Pic attached.

 

[Craigpump]

I sure hope you did away with those galvanized fittings!

Why? Because they will corrode and break off, plug the nipple to the pressure switch which could in a worse case, launch the tank like a freaking rocket through your hose.

Those AO Smith tanks are junk too

 

[Shoes]

I did some basic research to confirm, and you are right craig. Both that galvanized and that pressure tank need to go. I just bought a new tank (water worker, 86 gallon) and am working on the replacement tee (dang that setup is expensive). Thanks -
Shoes

 

[hj]

What makes you think that pipe is PB?

 

[Shoes]

Hi HJ - You may have only looked at the last picture, earlier pictures show the gray vangaurd thermogaurd (marked ASTMD-3309) that I pulled out.

 

[hj]

The only "Thermoguard" I know of is CPVC.

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/d3309-grey-pipe-is-it-safe.38635/ and http://sizes.com/materials/pipe_polybutylene.htm say ASTM D 3309 is PB.

 

[Shoes]

The connections to the PEX are clearly PEX-> PB crimps as well, and the original all appear to be crimped PB connections as well (copper, not plastic).