Remodel bathroom DWV help

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Elkati

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Hello,

Can someone explain a "Manometer Test" and a "Pressure Test" for a city plumbing permit? I'm replacing an alcove shower with new tile and a pre-formed shower base in the same location. I'm wondering if I'll need a plumber to do these tests for me. I'm stumped after reading about plugging every sink, toilet, etc. and filling up the vent stack on the roof with a garden hose.

The photo shows the existing cast iron P-trap that I'd like to replace with PVC. My only access to it is cutting out part of the plywood floor. There is no access to vents or stacks. I can easily do this but I'm confused about the tests.

Thanks so much!

El Kati
 

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I don't have any experience in your locallity, but I NEVER pressure test existing plumbing systems inside a finished home. Its a huge liability. Reason being, that if you had a leak in a plumbing pipe that is behind a finished wall or between floors, you might never find it but you could flood your home.. Full home tests are Only for new construction.

I think what you will be required to do is to pressure test any NEW plumbing work that you install. There are nuances in what is considered New Vs. what is just replacing existing fixtures on existing rough in locations vs. what is doing a Repair on existing.

In any case, If you're installing new pipe, you will want to pressure test it to ensure it doesn't leak. We install a fitting at the point where we connect to the existing work which separates the new from the old. In that fitting we install a specialized balloon that plugs the line and holds back water to completely fill the new drains and vents up to at least 10ft which creates about 5 pounds of water pressure. Once the system has been tested and inspected, then we release the air in the balloon which allows the water to safely drain down the drains and we replace the balloon with a threaded plug in the test fitting.

The Testing equipment that we use the most that is the safest to use in a finished environment is a Clean Seal balloon, which is one brands name for their.. of which several manufactures make similar. Its threaded into a Clean Out Tee which is the fitting we use for that device specifically.. no other fitting will work for that device.

Hope this helps.
 

Elkati

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I don't have any experience in your locallity, but I NEVER pressure test existing plumbing systems inside a finished home. Its a huge liability. Reason being, that if you had a leak in a plumbing pipe that is behind a finished wall or between floors, you might never find it but you could flood your home.. Full home tests are Only for new construction.

I think what you will be required to do is to pressure test any NEW plumbing work that you install. There are nuances in what is considered New Vs. what is just replacing existing fixtures on existing rough in locations vs. what is doing a Repair on existing.

In any case, If you're installing new pipe, you will want to pressure test it to ensure it doesn't leak. We install a fitting at the point where we connect to the existing work which separates the new from the old. In that fitting we install a specialized balloon that plugs the line and holds back water to completely fill the new drains and vents up to at least 10ft which creates about 5 pounds of water pressure. Once the system has been tested and inspected, then we release the air in the balloon which allows the water to safely drain down the drains and we replace the balloon with a threaded plug in the test fitting.

The Testing equipment that we use the most that is the safest to use in a finished environment is a Clean Seal balloon, which is one brands name for their.. of which several manufactures make similar. Its threaded into a Clean Out Tee which is the fitting we use for that device specifically.. no other fitting will work for that device.

Hope this helps.
Thank you! The inspector returned my call and said pretty much what you did. He only wants to see the new 3' connection between my new shower and the vent - no pressure test needed, just making sure I used the correct materials. And since I'm using a pre-formed shower base, even the pan test is unnecesary. It was a releif to see your reply. Thanks again.
 
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