PVC cement method

[noobster]

OK trying to redo handyman's shower drain mess....

anyway, I watched how to prime and glue PVC together with the twist and hold method.

my question is..how do you do that on the last connection when you cant twist it? will just a push and hold do?

 

[WorthFlorida]

Yes, the twist helps smear the adhesive and to not have any dry spots. It also allows the pipe to bottom out into the fitting just a little easier. The last piece make a 1" mark on the pipe, that is usually the minimum the pipe must be inserted into the fitting. Besure to glue both the pipe and fitting. Just don't over do it it with too much glue.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[noobster]

Got it! good idea...I knew that

thanks WorthFlorida

 

[noobster]

sorry all..additional question:

the vertical pipe I have to cut has some purple primer (can't tell if there's cement) on the whole pipe. 3 inches probably either drip or the guy went crazy.

is it ok to re-cement that part or does it have ot be clean?

 

[Jadnashua]

Not a problem to reuse it. YOu do want to still use primer...there's a time limit recommendation between application and gluing. For Oatey stuff, they say to put the joint together within 5-minutes of application with the cement. https://oateyassetcdn.azureedge.net/assets/Document/raw_01_Solvent Cements_PRODINSTRUCT_001.pdf

 

[noobster]

thanks

 

[Sam M]

Make sure you hold the connection firmly for a few seconds as the cement has a tendency to push the fitting/pipe out before it dries. I usually hold it for 5-10 seconds.

Purple primer is very runny and will get everywhere in a matter of seconds if you're not careful.

 

[Fitter30]

Purple or clear primer is the same. Purple is used mainly if the piping is getting inspected so inspector knows it was primed.

 

[Jadnashua]

Primer etches, cleans, and starts to soften the plastic so that when you apply the cement, it can better do its job. So, while if you just used primer and shoved things together, you might end up with the pipe and fitting stuck together, it wouldn't be a full strong joint, nor would the dissolved plastic in the cement be there to fill in any imperfections and allow you to bottom out the pipe into the fitting the designed length easily, if at all . So, neither one alone will get you the designed seal.

FWIW, depending on the geometry and whether things are anchored well, a joint can allow the pipe to move for well longer than 5-10 seconds. Keep in mind that the socket is tapered slightly (that's why you can't put the pipe in all the way until the cement softens it), that taper will try to eject the pipe from it until things are solidified. That can take longer than you might think in some situations. That can ruin your day if you need to step away for a few minutes and when you come back, things are out of whack and solidly attached as gravity or pressure moved things.