Pumptec trickle system help

Users who are viewing this thread

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
Hi I’m wiring my new submersible to the Pumptec 5800020116. It was setup as a 2 wire 115v. My new pump is a 240v 2 wire. I also have a trickle system and i’m having trouble finding any info on the wiring for a simple float switch with the Pumptec. There is no pressure switch involved but there is a float that tells the submersible when to turn on to fill the tank. Before one wire from the float was on L2 in the box and the other was connected to the common. The incoming hot wire as well as the black wire to my pump were connected together to the 115 terminal and the red wire was on the “Motor” terminal.


Now that I have 240 wired. I have a incoming hot going to the 240 terminal along with the black wire again from the pump. I have one wire from the float on the L2 still and the red wire on the motor terminal. Please verify if this is correct? What do I do with my other hot wire? And the second wire from the float? Connect together? Sorry the wiring diagram doesn’t help me much.


Thanks in advance.


Rob Kelman.


Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,893
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
My comments are based on looking at https://franklinwater.com/media/167299/225468103_pumptec_manual-final-062916.pdf

Now that I have 240 wired. I have a incoming hot going to the 240 terminal along with the black wire again from the pump.
Looks like one hot goes to L1 and the other to L2.

Now that I have 240 wired. I have a incoming hot going to the 240 terminal along with the black wire again from the pump. I have one wire from the float on the L2 still and the red wire on the motor terminal.
Sounds right to me.
 

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
"Looks like one hot goes to L1 and the other to L2."

Thanks for the reply. In this case where does my second float wire go? I'm assuming l2 is the signal terminal? When it was wired 115 L2 had one wire from the float (black) and the white wire from the float was just connected to the incoming common wire. If I put a hot on L2 wouldn’t that keep the pump running all the time?

Here’s a pic of the way it was.


4420CEED-BA94-4C32-94C2-C06DB5C92CB1.jpeg

Unlabelled terminals were empty.


Rob
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
The float is just one wire with a switch in the middle. One wire of the float switch goes to the breaker and the other end to the control box. This drawing shows a contactor being used to take the amp load off the float switch.

LOW YIELD WELL_ CENTRIFUGAL_PK1A.jpg
 

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
Ok thanks for the reply! So my second float wire goes to the second incoming hot wire correct? Does this pic look correct? This is how I hooked it up last night but haven’t turned it on yet. Do I need to take amp load off the float? I’m sure there was nothing before. (At one time it was 240 before the last pump was installed as 115v.
BD909EFF-0B0A-4C8E-85F4-267EF0772915.jpeg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,893
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
Thanks for the reply. In this case where does my second float wire go?
The pump, the way I was picturing it had with the float switch going in series with either the M to motor or L1 to motor line.

Alternatively the float could go between one of the L1 or L2 from the breaker. I think you should also have a 2-pole switch from the breaker.
img_2.png

For example
img_1.png

You should paint the white wire black at both ends with a Sharpie.
 
Last edited:

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
The float is on L2 now so that’s the same result?

The pump, the way I was picturing it had with the float switch going in series with either the M to motor or L1 to motor line.

Alternatively the float could go between one of the L1 or L2 from the breaker. I think you should also have a 2-pole switch from the breaker.
View attachment 55517
For example
View attachment 55516
You should paint the white wire black at both ends with a Sharpie.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,893
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
It works both ways, but note this in https://franklinwater.com/media/167299/225468103_pumptec_manual-final-062916.pdf

*Note: The “Rapid Cycle” trip criteria is 4 starts per minute. The
Pumptec must be wired before the pressure switch to activate
the “Rapid Cycle” feature.
I would rather have the float in the C or D postilions from my sketch. Since you are not using a pressure switch, that rapid cycle feature may often not matter. However rapid cycling could occur with a float switch in windy conditions or with a flaky switch or tether.
 

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
Thanks for the info I think I’m going to try the way I have it. I know when it was 240 before the float was wired through the pumptec and it worked fine. Wind won’t bother it as the tank is buried. If it gets that windy I have bigger problems! :)

It works both ways, but note this in https://franklinwater.com/media/167299/225468103_pumptec_manual-final-062916.pdf

*Note: The “Rapid Cycle” trip criteria is 4 starts per minute. The
Pumptec must be wired before the pressure switch to activate
the “Rapid Cycle” feature.
I would rather have the float in the C or D postilions from my sketch. Since you are not using a pressure switch, that rapid cycle feature may often not matter. However rapid cycling could occur with a float switch in windy conditions or with a flaky switch or tether.
 

Rtkman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
ONTARIO
Thanks for the help guys. It works as per my last pic. I called Franklin tech support just to be sure and it’s correct. They were great by the way.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks