Problem Installing New Toilet Flange

[bmd04]

We recently did a complete gut and rebuild on back-to-back second floor bathrooms. The finished tile floors ended up being higher than was anticipated when the rough plumbing was done. This leads to a problem in one of the baths. See attached picture. The top edge of the 3 inch sanitary tee hub that the toilet flange will connect to is approximately 1 inch below the top of the finished floor.

1. The toilet flange tailpiece that would fit into the hub is not long enough - it only goes about halfway into the hub, so I can't even get a friction fit when test-fitting it.

2. Alternatively, there is not enough room to allow using of a small section of 3 inch pipe into the hub and then using a flange that would glue over the pipe - the flange would sit about 1.25 inches above the floor.

3. My only thought is to glue an even shorter piece of 3 inch pipe into the hub, (so it just is even with the hub lip) and use a flange such as Sioux Chief 888-PM that has a 4inch long tailpiece that fits inside a 3 inch pipe and trim the tailpiece so it doesn't bottom-out in the sanitary tee. However, I don't like reducing the pathway down to this smaller diameter and am not sure it is even legal.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Terry]

Most toilet trapways are 2" in diameter. Dropping vertically into an inside pipe flange should not be a problem.
I would fit some pipe as long as needed into the 90 hub and go with the inside pipe flange.

They also make these in PVC.

 

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[bmd04]

Just to be sure - the flange tailpiece should be cut so it only extends down into the fitting as far as the 3 inch pipe does? Does the tailpiece get glued in or just inserted without glue? Thank you Terry!

 

[Terry]

The 4" piece gets cut to fit with what you wind up with. It looks to be a glue in piece.

 

[Jeff H Young]

how is it plumbed? is that a santee on back?

 

[Terry]

how is it plumbed? is that a santee on back?

OMG, I looked right past that. No way should there be a sanitary tee there for the toilet to dump into . The poo and paper will go both directions. At least with that knowledge we will know how to answer your next questions when you go to use this bathroom.

You can't dump a toilet into a santee on it's back.

 

[Jeff H Young]

my guess the toilet in other room might flush it out. kind of a bummer its all plumbed .

 

[Reach4]

It's wrong, but it might function. I am not a plumber. Did you put that in yourself?

How deep is it from the finished floor to the bottom of the hub socket in that sanitary tee?

Is that ceramic or porcelain tile?

 

[bmd04]

It's wrong, but it might function. I am not a plumber. Did you put that in yourself?

How deep is it from the finished floor to the bottom of the hub socket in that sanitary tee?

Is that ceramic or porcelain tile?[/QUOT

It's wrong, but it might function. I am not a plumber. Did you put that in yourself?

How deep is it from the finished floor to the bottom of the hub socket in that sanitary tee?

Is that ceramic or porcelain tile?

This work was part of a larger remodel which included sistering first floor 2x8 floor joists to lessen springiness of second floor and gutting back-to-back bathrooms on second floor. The wall between both baths was redone to make it 2x6 instead of original 2x4. With all of that, all plumbing in those places had to be removed and replaced.
However, the fitting used for DWV were the same as originals (house built in 1980). We have lived in the house for 35 years and did not have any problems with toilets. I did the structural stuff and had a licensed plumber come in to do the water and DWV plumbing. I had a permit for the work but inspector did not note anything, maybe because he knew we were just replicating what already existed.
The new floor is porcelain tile. See the attached pictures which were taken looking up from the still unfinished first floor bath. At the top of the pictures is the fitting for the toilet in question, in the middle is the fitting for the main stack which is in the wall between the baths and the lower part of the picture shows the fitting for the toilet in the other bath and the main stack heading to the basement.

 

[bmd04]

This work was part of a larger remodel which included sistering first floor 2x8 floor joists to lessen springiness of second floor and gutting back-to-back bathrooms on second floor. The wall between both baths was redone to make it 2x6 instead of original 2x4. With all of that, all plumbing in those places had to be removed and replaced.
However, the fitting used for DWV were the same as originals (house built in 1980). We have lived in the house for 35 years and did not have any problems with toilets. I did the structural stuff and had a licensed plumber come in to do the water and DWV plumbing. I had a permit for the work but inspector did not note anything, maybe because he knew we were just replicating what already existed.
The new floor is porcelain tile. See the attached pictures which were taken looking up from the still unfinished first floor bath. At the top of the pictures is the fitting for the toilet in question, in the middle is the fitting for the main stack which is in the wall between the baths and the lower part of the picture shows the fitting for the toilet in the other bath and the main stack heading to the basement.

 

[Reach4]

The new floor is porcelain tile.

That could makes it hard to put the screws in for the new closet flange, -- whatever it is. Try to put screws where the tile isn't.

How deep is it from the top of the finished floor to the bottom of the hub socket in that sanitary tee?

 

[Terry]

I"m used to different plumbing codes here. There isn't any inspector in my state that would have passed that.

 

[Reach4]

I"m used to different plumbing codes here. There isn't any inspector in my state that would have passed that.

In this situation, is there something that could have properly fit? I think the answer may have to be to put the drain line beneath the joists.

bmd04: Which santee on its back is the toilet, and what is the other one?

 

[Terry]

Normally I wye off for each toilet and come up with a 90. That way the waste is directed downstream instead of just hitting the bottom of the pipe without any persuasion as to what direction it should be headed in.

I have pulled plumbing out like this and found where the 2" side was pretty badly filled with poop.
Of course you can keep snaking the shower side to clear it I guess. But, would never pass code where I am.

 

[bmd04]

That could makes it hard to put the screws in for the new closet flange, -- whatever it is. Try to put screws where the tile isn't.

How deep is it from the top of the finished floor to the bottom of the hub socket in that sanitary tee?

I measured approximately 2.375 inches (i.e. that would be the length of 3 inch pipe that would be level with the finished floor and extend as far as possible into the fitting)

 

[bmd04]

In this situation, is there something that could have properly fit? I think the answer may have to be to put the drain line beneath the joists.

bmd04: Which santee on its back is the toilet, and what is the other one?

In this situation, is there something that could have properly fit? I think the answer may have to be to put the drain line beneath the joists.

bmd04: Which santee on its back is the toilet, and what is the other one?

The one at the top of the photo goes to the toilet in question, the next one towards the middle of the photo is the main stack that goes up through the wall separating the bathrooms and the one on the far side of that nail guard plate is for the toilet in the other bathroom toilet and it goes straight down to the basement and out to the street

 

[Reach4]

I measured approximately 2.375 inches (i.e. that would be the length of 3 inch pipe that would be level with the finished floor and extend as far as possible into the fitting)

So a 3 inch Push-Tite would not fit.



Looking at the Oatey 888-ptm, I think the piece of PVC you would stick into the hub might be around 2 inches long to clear the round, but you would probably want to have the closet flange present to be sure before gluing.

 

[bmd04]

So a 3 inch Push-Tite would not fit.



Looking at the Oatey 888-ptm, I think the piece of PVC you would stick into the hub might be around 2 inches long to clear the round, but you would probably want to have the closet flange present to be sure before gluing.

Yes, it looks like that is my only (simple) option. You are right, I will have the flange on hand before gluing. I guess I will aim to be slightly conservative (shorter) with the length of pipe so that I don't end up with the flange sitting off the floor! Thanks for your help.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Normally I wye off for each toilet and come up with a 90. That way the waste is directed downstream instead of just hitting the bottom of the pipe without any persuasion as to what direction it should be headed in.

I have pulled plumbing out like this and found where the 2" side was pretty badly filled with poop.
Of course you can keep snaking the shower side to clear it I guess. But, would never pass code where I am.

We don't do plumbing that way regardless of code. I won't trust that plumbing. Hope he fixes it.

 

[bmd04]

We don't do plumbing that way regardless of code. I won't trust that plumbing. Hope he fixes it.

I will be working this. Thanks to you and all for your input. Excellent talent contributing here, I learn from this forum every time I read it!