Bushing or barb fitting reducer is fine. I would use a rigid nipple through the well seal. Means you probably need a coupling on the barb fitting, 6' nipple through the well seal, and a tee to set on the well seal and feed the house.
Pressure rating on insert fitting.
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Sounds fine to me.
If you are using a well seal, then yes. The weight would be borne by the fitting on top of the well seal.
Even if you are in the part of Oregon that does not freeze, a pitless adapter is better IMO. Not everybody agrees. The pitless would usually have a female NPT thread, and the barb would screw into that.
People add pitless adapters fairly easily usually. There are different kinds. What is the ID or OD and material for your casing that sticks out of the ground? That will play a part in selecting the pitless adapter.
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Yes a 3/4 hp sub motor needs to be protected by a 20 amp breaker. Running amps will be 7-8 amps. Locked rotor amps are 34.2 and would trip the breaker.
A 230 volt 3/4 hp sub motor can have up to 300 ft of #14, 480 ft of #12, or 760 ft of #10 wire between the motor and the breaker. These maximum lengths will keep voltage drop to under 5%. This is from the Franklin AIM manual.
It’s a separate section of the NEC to size wires and overload protection devices for motors.
A 230 volt 3/4 hp sub motor can have up to 300 ft of #14, 480 ft of #12, or 760 ft of #10 wire between the motor and the breaker. These maximum lengths will keep voltage drop to under 5%. This is from the Franklin AIM manual.
It’s a separate section of the NEC to size wires and overload protection devices for motors.
I would prefer to have a pitless adapter in the well but in this instance I dont think that would be feasible, at least not without a lot of work. I believe the well casing sticks up about 5 or 6 inches from the concrete in the little pit its in. It is a 6" well casing, and I know it can be extended if need be. All the pipe feeding the house is under cement and the well is about 5 feet from the side of the house. Most of the pipes I have found or have access to are pvc and are only 4 or 5 inches under the ground. When the previous owner up in water lines he didn't put them nearly deep enough in my opinion. I have never had the well cap off so I dont know what it looks like down the hole. There may be a pitless adapter but I have no idea where the water would feed to.
Oh, I did have one more question. Hopefully the last one. Where should the pressure switch be located? In my set up the pressure tank is in the house and its hooked to a pipe that goes down into the cement. Its maybe 20 or 30 feet from the well pump. I have read that the switch should be next to the pressure tank. That will require a bit of modification to the pipe going into to the tank but it will be easy. Right now the switch is outside right next to the pump.
Move the switch to the bottom of the pressure tank.
Hope these pictures turn out. I did not put the stick in the well cap, it was there when I bought the place.
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With the switch that far from the pressure tank it should be bouncing the pump on/off rapidly. I don't know how you have been getting away with it. But if the switch isn't bouncing, there is really no other problem with its location.
So far the pump has not kicked on and off rapidly that I have noticed. It kicks on after the toilet is flushed now and it takes a lot longer for the pump to get the system back up to pressure to turn off but otherwise its been ok. I was going to relocate the switch so its connected to the line going into the pressure tank. I've been wanting to put a ball valve in that line anyway. I would prefer to have the pressure relief valve outside thought so I was going to put that in the line probably after the csv. Just before the pipe drops down into the cement to head towards the house.
I'd say at least, sometimes seems like 10 minutes. Its roughly twice as long as it used to take a few years ago. I did check the pressure tank to make sure it was set properly. It was waterlogged some as usual but I corrected that. Bladder tank would be a lot easier to deal with. The one I have now is just a holding tank being used as a pressure tank. 5 minutes seems about normal for that pump. One time I believe it took 20 minutes.
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What kind of tape or pipe wrap is wrapped around that flow inducer?
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