Portable Air Conditioner Selection Advice Please!

Users who are viewing this thread

Chuck B

sea-bee
Messages
122
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
levering, michigan
Hi!

I could use some advice on the selection of a quality portable air conditioner that will be used in a bedroom primarily at night, and the main living area on occasion during the day.

My wife and I are the only inhabitants of the cottage on a regular basis.

The dwelling is our lakefront 750 square-foot cottage in northern Michigan. Here are some particulars about the rooms:

Bedroom:

The room is 10’ x 13’
Standard 8’ ceiling
Ceiling insulated with 10 inches of fiberglass.
Three windows all double pane E glass.
Walls are 2 x 4 studs, all insulated with fiberglass and 1/4 inch foam board under vinyl siding which was applied over the original tongue and groove wood siding.
Tongue and groove wood floor (3/4”) with vinyl plank flooring installed over it.
There is a crawlspace under the cottage and has not been insulated yet. There is good airflow under there. Will likely install fiberglass bats between the 24” o.c. joists, or have it foamed in the future but not soon.
We heat with Cadet electric wall mounted digital forced fan heaters.
One window faces the west and gets full sun in the afternoon and the other two windows face north with no sun.

Family Room/Dining Area/Kitchen:

The open concept rooms are 20’ x 15’.
Note: Not a lot of cooking takes place in the cottage during the summer as we grill mostly.
There is a full-sized side by side door refrigerator, and a convection microwave oven over the electric cooktop. No traditional oven, as we use the convection feature of the microwave for baking and roasting on occasion.
Standard 8’ ceiling
Ceiling insulated with 10 inches of fiberglass.
Eight windows all double pane (some with) E glass and a 32” French door with e glass. Approximately 50% of the wall area is covered by windows or a door.
Walls are 2 x 4 studs, all insulated with fiberglass and 1/4 inch foam board under vinyl siding which was applied over the original tongue and groove wood siding.
Tongue and groove wood floor (3/4”) with vinyl plank flooring installed over it.
There is a crawlspace under the cottage and has not been insulated yet. There is good airflow under there. Will likely install fiberglass bats between the 24” o.c. joists, or have it foamed in the future but not soon.
We heat with Cadet electric wall mounted digital forced fan heaters.
Three windows and door faces east, four south, and one north.

Note:

It may be impractical to size a unit for both applications and our primary concern is to cool the bedroom to make sleeping more comfortable during hot humid nights.

But if that is the case please spec out a unit for the bedroom and another for the joined rooms. I understand using a unit that is too big perhaps that will work for the larger area would be too powerful for the bedroom and would cool it but not reduce the humidity as I understand it. And if the unit size is appropriate for the bedroom it could run continuously in a larger area. Is my logic correct?

I am also curious about drain requirements. Aren’t there some units available that don’t require a drain?

Question about venting the hot air. I prefer not to vent through windows and would like to use a dryer type event to connect the hose to for security reasons. Is that possible?

Thank you for your advice in advance. I know I’ve written a book here but wanted to give you as much information as possible.

I am interested in a quality unit and would not purchase simply on price alone.

Thanks again, Chuck
 
Last edited:

Breplum

Licensed plumbing contractor
Messages
1,861
Reaction score
752
Points
113
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Those portable units only blow cold air on you and do not much to actually cool the room.
Consumer Reports did a detailed analysis and my recollection and direct knowledge of having extensively been around one at a friends = AVOID.... don't bother with a "portable".
Also, you can't actually have "air conditioning" without a drain for condensation.
Unfortunately, cost wise, the better choice is mini-split or PTAC through the wall unless you want to just go window mount.
 

AllaKrossover

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New York
The portable air conditioner is, first and foremost, a way to save money and reduce energy consumption. Another advantage of such a device is obviously its portability. Weighing between 25 and 30 kilograms, it can be moved to cool one room or another. Compared to a permanent unit, installing the portable air conditioner is much faster and easier. The cooling capacity of a portable air conditioner is not large enough to cool an entire home. Rather, it is practical for cooling a specific room, such as the bedroom or living room. So you have to know what surface can be cooled with such a device.
 
Last edited:

BBCOND HVAC JOE

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver
Hi!

I could use some advice on the selection of a quality portable air conditioner that will be used in a bedroom primarily at night, and the main living area on occasion during the day.

My wife and I are the only inhabitants of the cottage on a regular basis.

The dwelling is our lakefront 750 square-foot cottage in northern Michigan. Here are some particulars about the rooms:

Bedroom:

The room is 10’ x 13’
Standard 8’ ceiling
Ceiling insulated with 10 inches of fiberglass.
Three windows all double pane E glass.
Walls are 2 x 4 studs, all insulated with fiberglass and 1/4 inch foam board under vinyl siding which was applied over the original tongue and groove wood siding.
Tongue and groove wood floor (3/4”) with vinyl plank flooring installed over it.
There is a crawlspace under the cottage and has not been insulated yet. There is good airflow under there. Will likely install fiberglass bats between the 24” o.c. joists, or have it foamed in the future but not soon.
We heat with Cadet electric wall mounted digital forced fan heaters.
One window faces the west and gets full sun in the afternoon and the other two windows face north with no sun.

Family Room/Dining Area/Kitchen:

The open concept rooms are 20’ x 15’.
Note: Not a lot of cooking takes place in the cottage during the summer as we grill mostly.
There is a full-sized side by side door refrigerator, and a convection microwave oven over the electric cooktop. No traditional oven, as we use the convection feature of the microwave for baking and roasting on occasion.
Standard 8’ ceiling
Ceiling insulated with 10 inches of fiberglass.
Eight windows all double pane (some with) E glass and a 32” French door with e glass. Approximately 50% of the wall area is covered by windows or a door.
Walls are 2 x 4 studs, all insulated with fiberglass and 1/4 inch foam board under vinyl siding which was applied over the original tongue and groove wood siding.
Tongue and groove wood floor (3/4”) with vinyl plank flooring installed over it.
There is a crawlspace under the cottage and has not been insulated yet. There is good airflow under there. Will likely install fiberglass bats between the 24” o.c. joists, or have it foamed in the future but not soon.
We heat with Cadet electric wall mounted digital forced fan heaters.
Three windows and door faces east, four south, and one north.

Note:

It may be impractical to size a unit for both applications and our primary concern is to cool the bedroom to make sleeping more comfortable during hot humid nights.

But if that is the case please spec out a unit for the bedroom and another for the joined rooms. I understand using a unit that is too big perhaps that will work for the larger area would be too powerful for the bedroom and would cool it but not reduce the humidity as I understand it. And if the unit size is appropriate for the bedroom it could run continuously in a larger area. Is my logic correct?

I am also curious about drain requirements. Aren’t there some units available that don’t require a drain?

Question about venting the hot air. I prefer not to vent through windows and would like to use a dryer type event to connect the hose to for security reasons. Is that possible?

Thank you for your advice in advance. I know I’ve written a book here but wanted to give you as much information as possible.

I am interested in a quality unit and would not purchase simply on price alone.

Thanks again, Chuck
We have sold 100S of portable AC units to customers all over NYC, the best unit for heating and cooling and you don't need to drain the water from it is Friedrich, https://www.bbcond.com/product/friedrich-12000-btu-zoneaire-series-zcp12da/
You can connect them to a dryer venting system, just test it for tightness and I would not recommend running it indoors in the room more than 20 feet.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks