PEX A from CPVC Shower Remodel Question

[Reach4]

I think John was talking about something like https://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/powerpex-systems/astm-f1960/adapters-connectors/straight/cpvc
Sioux Chief 645WGC3 -- ¾" F1960 × ¾" CPVC
such as https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-N...Straight-Adapters-SIOUX-645WGC3-/362480777851

Into that he suggested gluing in a cpvc bushing such as https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-CPVC-CTS-Spigot-x-Slip-Bushing-Fitting-C4718HD3412/100347587

 

[John Gayewski]

Would you have a link to for the product because I haven't seen any 1/2 cpvc to 3/4 PEX expansion. Even Uponor doesn't have one.

You need to glue a bushing into thr fitting I have pictured.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[TomV8]

I think John was talking about something like https://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/powerpex-systems/astm-f1960/adapters-connectors/straight/cpvc
Sioux Chief 645WGC3 -- ¾" F1960 × ¾" CPVC
such as https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-N...Straight-Adapters-SIOUX-645WGC3-/362480777851

Into that he suggested gluing in a cpvc bushing such as https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-CPVC-CTS-Spigot-x-Slip-Bushing-Fitting-C4718HD3412/100347587

Thank you very much for that. I am not sure if I would have come across that bushing on my own and I can pick up both of those up locally too.

 

[TomV8]

Last night I went out and bought the above recommended fittings: 1/2 to 3/4 bushing and a 3/4 CPVC to 3/4 Pex A adapter. Now I have another question. I tried finding the answer to my question before asking it here, but there really is no information online and I want to be sure that this is correct.

In section A. you can see the how the fittings are supposed to be connected. The imaginary 1/2 cpvc pipe goes into the bushing and then the bushing goes into the adapter. My question is (which is probably dumb) Will that sloped recessed section in the bushing effect water flow and cause turbulence? Are this fittings designed to have the flow go from a smaller pipe to a larger one or just from larger to smaller?

I am sure this is to prevent turbulence if the flow was reversed, going from a large pipe to a smaller pipe, but I'm just being paranoid. In section C. you can see that the length of the bushing is 3/4 long. I am pretty sure that this fitting will not fully seat since it's already a pretty snug fit. Will this small gap cause any flow issues?

B. is just another glamor shot or how the three parts would all fit together. Have to use your imagination for the 1/2 pipe.

D. This was my original plan before learning about the bushing. Is the bushing option still the better one?

 

[Reach4]

In section A. you can see the how the fittings are supposed to be connected. The imaginary 1/2 cpvc pipe goes into the bushing and then the bushing goes into the adapter. My question is (which is probably dumb) Will that sloped recessed section in the bushing effect water flow and cause turbulence? Are this fittings designed to have the flow go from a smaller pipe to a larger one or just from larger to smaller?

Turbulence will be minor. The ID of the pipe is probably similar to the ID you are worried about.

I have not glued CPVC, but I think you should assume that the surfaces will be wet with cement, and that you will apply considerable force, both linear and twisting. Or buy a few cheap pieces, like couplings, and practice on those.

D. This was my original plan before learning about the bushing. Is the bushing option still the better one?

I think a threaded connection is more likely to leak than a glued/cemented connection.

 

[John Gayewski]

Don't bury threaded fittings in the wall. You can of course, but I avoid it when I can.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I'd go 3/4 PEX to CPVC fitting with 3/4 x 1/2 reducer glued in. Cleanest way and least chance of leak

 

[TomV8]

I think I'm set for the valve etc. and now I need to start investigating on moving/extending my floor drain since I was just informed by my tile/shower installer that I need to move it from the standard left side tub position to center on 60 in. Sigh

Also thinking about adding some sort of access door on the bottom of my bumped out wall, though I don't know what I could achieve if I add one. I guess. That's probably not going to happen, but I like to keep my options open.

 

[Reach4]

Also thinking about adding some sort of access door on the bottom of my bumped out wall, though I don't know what I could achieve if I add one. I guess. That's probably not going to happen, but I like to keep my options open.

What is on the other side of the wall? You could just record where you could add an access panel in the future if needed.

 

[Jadnashua]

There are various ways to have your shower drain offset, and even at the extreme end (via use of a linear drain, probably the most expensive option). But, while it's easiest to have the drain at the center, it's not required. Most people prefer to have a level perimeter around the shower. That is easier to apply when the drain is centered. You need at least 1/4" per foot slope, so if the drain is at one end, and you want the perimeter tile to be at a level line, then it may be quite steep from the short side to the drain. If you can accept an uneven perimeter (this is the normal thing when you have a linear drain), you then end up with a single, flat slope versus four slightly rounded flat triangles.

Note, a tub is often plumbed with a 1.5" drain and trap, but if you're redoing things, code wants a 2" drain and trap for a shower.

 

[TomV8]

What is on the other side of the wall? You could just record where you could add an access panel in the future if needed.

Really, there isn't anything except six inches of air space between the exterior wall studs/insulation and then the other row of studs for the bump out wall that the shower head and valve is on. I could possibly add a shut-off valves to the H&C lines that goes to shower valves but i don't know if that would be worth having.

There are various ways to have your shower drain offset, and even at the extreme end (via use of a linear drain, probably the most expensive option). But, while it's easiest to have the drain at the center, it's not required.

Note, a tub is often plumbed with a 1.5" drain and trap, but if you're redoing things, code wants a 2" drain and trap for a shower.

For us, we actually need to have it on center since that is the product we agreed/already ordered on is a Schulter shower kit that has the center drain option. I am almost positive that the drain is already a 2", but my main concern is the slope since the current drain is above the subfloor. The bottom of the actual tub is about 2-4 inches above the subfloor and kept in place with a sandwich of cement and plywood. The rough in opening for the current main drain pipe that runs down into under the subfloor that our vanity and toilet is connected to is quite large, so If i need to increase the slope, I think i have enough room to work.

its nice that I have a pretty clear view of everything due to the current access panels for the jetted tub.