Patching up an old system

[adtopkek]

I am working on an old home known for water issues by the manufacturer cutting corners. There are leaks going to one side of the house and the water heater is leaking massively. Entire system cannot hold water very well. I am told that something is wrong with something down in the pump causing water to leak (Check valve?) but it might be fine and the problem might be everything else. There is a pressure pump connected to a random part of the system and I don't think it works right.

I am thinking of chopping out the water heater and setting up my water system similar to this video but going straight from the pressure pump T to some sort of distribution to feed the 2 areas that need water (Both hot and cold = cold):

The entire house is using Poly Butanyl pipe which is seemingly discontinued but needs to work for the time being. I am planning on using sharkbite connectors.

1) Should I use a check valve or other one way valve before the Tee? I am not sure if the pump check valve is good or not and its about 30 years old (That is a project itself for later). Does it need a hammer?
2) I have a small tank but are these Tee setups pretty much the standard/code setup? It seems to make sense. https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/wellmate-tank-fittings-package-tfp2-rv
3) Is there a connector that has a spinny thing on it that I can use to tell if there are further leaks I am unaware of?
4) Should I use lead free brass or stainless steel. Stainless seems more expensive and I can't tell if its much of an improvement over the brass.
5) Anything interesting I should read/watch about wells, plumbing code, or indiana plumbing code? I will probably have to redo the entire system.

I am trying to use components for this temporary setup that I can use for the permanent setup when I can get that done.

 

[Valveman]

The check valve down on the submersible pump must work, and that is the only one you need.

If you have a leak you can see the pressure on the gauge drop when no water is being used.

Stainless or brass is fine.

A small tank is fine if used with a Cycle Stop Valve. Your water comes from the well and pump, not the tank. The only purpose for the tank is to keep the pump from cycling on and off too much, and when you have a CSV to do that for you, a small tank is all that is needed. 36 gallon tank only holds 8 gallons of water. Huge tanks are not the best way to go anymore.

 

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[adtopkek]

The check valve down on the submersible pump must work, and that is the only one you need.

If you have a leak you can see the pressure on the gauge drop when no water is being used.

Stainless or brass is fine.

A small tank is fine if used with a Cycle Stop Valve. Your water comes from the well and pump, not the tank. The only purpose for the tank is to keep the pump from cycling on and off too much, and when you have a CSV to do that for you, a small tank is all that is needed. 36 gallon tank only holds 8 gallons of water. Huge tanks are not the best way to go anymore.

How do I know if the pump check valve is working or not? Right now I have so many problems it's hard to tell one from the other.

Does the CSV work on 30 yr old pumps?

 

[Valveman]

If the pressure on the gauge drops with no water being used either the check is leaking back or there is a hole in the pipe. The CSV works fine with old pumps as long as they are still good.

 

[adtopkek]

If the pressure on the gauge drops with no water being used either the check is leaking back or there is a hole in the pipe. The CSV works fine with old pumps as long as they are still good.

I might look into the CSV when I redo the entire system.