P-Trap piping doesn't line up

[Nwoodard34]

Hey guys, I've run into a bit of an issue after installing a new bathroom sink--I can't get the P-Trap installed because I can't get the piping lined up. There's not enough room between the marvel connector (I think that's the name of it anyway--the piece with the male end that is cemented to the stub) and the tail pipe.

I cut the trap arm and jam it into that marvel connector as far as it will go before it hits the bend, but the other end of the J is still a little over an inch too far in front of the tailpipe. The tail pipe is pretty much dead direct in front of the wall stub, so I can't swing the assembly left or right to offset it.

The pics here should show what I'm talking about:

What should I do here to fix it?

I COULD cut the wall stub back further to create that inch but I don't have a lot of room to work with there before I hit the wall. Feel like there has to be an easier way. Maybe a couple of 45's pieced together somehow?

Appreciate your input folks. Please type slowly so I can understand

 

[Reach4]

Is that a chromed pipe coming out of the wall?

How does the trap adapter attach to that?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Nwoodard34]

Is that a chromed pipe coming out of the wall?

How does the trap adapter attach to that?

No that is just a 1.5" PVC pipe. Not sure why it would look like a chrome piece on your computer. It is attached to the marvel connector with primer/cement.

 

[Reach4]

What is the distance from the back of the trap adapter to the face of the escutcheon?

 

[Nwoodard34]

What is the distance from the back of the trap adapter to the face of the escutcheon?

Man that really does look like chrome on your computer. It took me a minute to realize that was actually part of MY photo. Weird

It is 1.5". You can see where I had started to cut the pipe before I realized that I wouldn't have enough room to do that if I did before running into the wall flange (assuming I need an inch and that the stub would go into the connector a little more than half an inch once I connected it). My plan if there is no other option would just be to cut slits in the marvel connector with the dremmel and chisel it off to give me a little more room to work with

 

[Terry]

If you can't cut back closer to the wall, we sometimes do this with a 45 bend.

 

[Reach4]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...V-45-Hub-x-Hub-Elbow-CTT003210800HD/301191678 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-2-in-ConnecTite-PVC-DWV-45-Hub-x-Hub-Elbow-CTT003211000HD/301191684 could be a way to add a 45 that will accept a spigot trap adapter. The advantage of the the ConnecTite is it does not get glued, and can be removed.

Or glue... just became aware of the ConnecTite fittings.

If you want a tad more space, you could get a shallower escutcheon.

So gluing on a new trap adapter onto the cut-off pipe could give you the space to keep the trap adapter straight to the wall. A 45 lets you do as Terry pictured.

 

[Nwoodard34]

If you can't cut back closer to the wall, we sometimes do this with a 45 bend.

Hey thanks for responding to my post Terry. I think that would probably work just fine, but just so I'm clear, I would have to cut the trap adapter off first, right?

If so, I envision the assembly looks like:
1. Wall stub (1.5" diameter)
2. 45 degree elbow with female/male ends (female end would connect to wall stub and male end would connect to trap adapter)
3. Trap adapter (1.5" to 1.25")
4. Rest of P-Trap kit

Does that sound right?

 

[Nwoodard34]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...V-45-Hub-x-Hub-Elbow-CTT003210800HD/301191678 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-2-in-ConnecTite-PVC-DWV-45-Hub-x-Hub-Elbow-CTT003211000HD/301191684 could be a way to add a 45 that will accept a spigot trap adapter. The advantage of the the ConnecTite is it does not get glued, and can be removed.

Or glue... just became aware of the ConnecTite fittings.

If you want a tad more space, you could get a shallower escutcheon.

So gluing on a new trap adapter onto the cut-off pipe could give you the space to keep the trap adapter straight to the wall. A 45 lets you do as Terry pictured.

Ugh I dunno--those things look awfully suspect to me. I'll probably opt for a more robust solution, but I would be curious for people's experieinces with them.

Shallower escutcheon is a good idea but if I am going to have to hacksaw the pipe/trap adapter off anyway, I'll probably just slice the trap adapter with a dremmel and pry it off, cut an inch off the stub, and put a new adapter on. That would leave me with half an inch between the adapter and the escutcheon, and like you said would let me keep the whole assembly straight to the wall.

Appreciate your response. Thanks!

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

 

[hj]

Do it the EASIEST way. Cut the pipe and glue on a new Marvel connector.

 

[Reach4]

Shallower escutcheon is a good idea but if I am going to have to hacksaw the pipe/trap adapter off anyway, I'll probably just slice the trap adapter with a dremmel and pry it off, cut an inch off the stub, and put a new adapter on.

Make sure the new trap adapter is more than 1.25 inches closer to the wall than the old one. I would measure for the new trap adapter to be less than 1/4 inch from the escutcheon, and 1/8 inch would be better. That should give you a bit of margin. That may have been what you had in mind. Your one inch number could be ambiguous.

 

[Nwoodard34]

View attachment 66197

AH man, this looks like the easiest thing because it would allow me to keep all the existing piping I've installed and just run this to what is there. I don't see a 1.25" on HD or Lowes website but Ace has it and I can probably find it there without too much trouble. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Nwoodard34]

Do it the EASIEST way. Cut the pipe and glue on a new Marvel connector.

Yeah I think this is the route I am going to go. A little bit more of a PITA since i'll have to cut off the marvel connector to give myself enough room to work with before bumping into the wall but this will probably be the cleanest and prettiest way to do it.

 

[Nwoodard34]

Make sure the new trap adapter is more than 1.25 inches closer to the wall than the old one. I would measure for the new trap adapter to be less than 1/4 inch from the escutcheon, and 1/8 inch would be better. That should give you a bit of margin. That may have been what you had in mind. Your one inch number could be ambiguous.

Yeah good point. I used the 1" number because that's about how much I need (see the second picture in my OP) but more would be better since I can slip the trap arm out of the adapter a bit if need be. Going as close as possible to the wall is the right way to go. Thanks for your help.

 

[Reach4]

I don't see a 1.25" on HD or Lowes website but Ace has it and I can probably find it there without too much trouble. Thanks for the suggestion.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Slip-Joint-20-Gauge-Chrome-C1046-1/205153633 , but if Ace has it, good deal.

Chrome-plated brass cuts with a fine bladed hacksaw. Yes, you can mix plastic and brass slip joint fittings.

 

[Nwoodard34]

So I decided to just cut off the trap adapter and glue another one on to get the cleanest possible setup instead of trying to get into weird plumbing extensions and configurations. I started to try and dremmel the old one and pry it off in pieces to preserve as much of the stub as possible, but that was becoming a pain in the butt and just decided to roll the dice and cut the pipe 1.5" back from the base of the connector instead.

After that, I didn't quite have enough room with the existing escutcheon as it set, but used my dremmel to cut the lip off the escutcheon to make it "skinnier" so it could sit flusher to the wall. That gave me a little over 0.5" to work with on the stub, but pushing the adapter back into the escutcheon gave a bit of flex on the cabinet back wall as well, so that worked out nicely.

After that, the rest of the trap was a breeze. Pic of the final result. Thank you all for your help here in talking me through this.