Options to replace iron filter and pressure tank

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campervanman

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I currently have a galvanized pressure tank with micronizer, plus an older iron filter. Looking to 1) reduce the total noise of the system (micronizer seems to make a lot of noise when pump is running) 2) extend pump cycle and 3) proactively replace old equipment.

The galvanized tank does not have a shrader valve and so cannot be pre-charged. I think that's part of the problem with short cycling.

I am thinking of installing a Amtrol WX-251 which with my 7.5GPM pump, and new 40/60 switch, should give me a 2 minute cycle time.

I am then considering a Pro-Ox iron filter from Clean Water Store. They tell me I probably won't need air injector, but could add that later. I'd love to avoid this, as noise reduction is a priority. 2014 iron was .99 mg/L, manganese was 0.045. Recently, iron came back 0.18, manganese .04. PH was 7.5.

I have seen mixed reviews on the Pro-Ox and so wanted to see what better options may be out there. I've read quite a bit about katalox light, although it seems like needs additional oxidation, and may be unproven. I'm just not sure. Open to any and all information. Thank you!
 

Reach4

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WX-251 would be good.

But the Pro-ox needs a lot of GPM.

7.5 gpm is bairly enough to backwash Katalox Light in a 10 inch tank. Not nearly enough to backwash Pro-Ox in a 10 inch tank.

If you could backwash for a minute, rest a minute, repeat a few times, the pressure tank could supply the flow rate. But you don't even know if you would get 30 seconds of fast-enough backwash because the tank could be nearly empty of water when you start the backwash.
 

campervanman

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WX-251 would be good.

But the Pro-ox needs a lot of GPM.

7.5 gpm is bairly enough to backwash Katalox Light in a 10 inch tank. Not nearly enough to backwash Pro-Ox in a 10 inch tank.

If you could backwash for a minute, rest a minute, repeat a few times, the pressure tank could supply the flow rate. But you don't even know if you would get 30 seconds of fast-enough backwash because the tank could be nearly empty of water when you start the backwash.
Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Here's a stupid question. Well pump died in 2020 and went with plumbers recommendation on it's replacement. 3/4 HP, rated for 7GPM. I've not measured output since that was installed but if pump is rated 7GPM is it safe to assume that's what I have? The pump is Goulds 7CS07412CL. (I recalled incorrectly when I wrote 7.5 above)

Old system measured at 8.5GPM when we bought the house in 2014. I assumed plumber replaced like for like but that could be a bad assumption.

Assuming I have 7GPM any tips on options that might work?

Also, clean water store specified 9" tank with a posted 7GPM backwash. Might be optimistic or under ideal conditions?
 
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LLigetfa

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The galvanized tank does not have a shrader valve and so cannot be pre-charged. I think that's part of the problem with short cycling.
First off, a HP tank normally does not get of keep a precharge in the same sense as a captive air tank. Any time the pressure drops below cut-in such as when drawing faster than the micronizer permits, some of the air (precharge) will move forward (escape).

A properly working micronizer would provide an excess of air to the HP tank. The micronizer however would restrict the GPM available for backwash.
 

campervanman

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First off, a HP tank normally does not get of keep a precharge in the same sense as a captive air tank. Any time the pressure drops below cut-in such as when drawing faster than the micronizer permits, some of the air (precharge) will move forward (escape).

A properly working micronizer would provide an excess of air to the HP tank. The micronizer however would restrict the GPM available for backwash.
Thanks for taking the time, LLigetfa.

I am planning to replace the galvanized tank with a bladder tank as part of this project. However, I appreciate the information on how my current system *should* be working!
 
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