Options to replace iron filter and pressure tank

Users who are viewing this thread

Campervanman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Northeast
I currently have a galvanized pressure tank with micronizer, plus an older iron filter. Looking to 1) reduce the total noise of the system (micronizer seems to make a lot of noise when pump is running) 2) extend pump cycle and 3) proactively replace old equipment.

The galvanized tank does not have a shrader valve and so cannot be pre-charged. I think that's part of the problem with short cycling.

I am thinking of installing a Amtrol WX-251 which with my 7.5GPM pump, and new 40/60 switch, should give me a 2 minute cycle time.

I am then considering a Pro-Ox iron filter from Clean Water Store. They tell me I probably won't need air injector, but could add that later. I'd love to avoid this, as noise reduction is a priority. 2014 iron was .99 mg/L, manganese was 0.045. Recently, iron came back 0.18, manganese .04. PH was 7.5.

I have seen mixed reviews on the Pro-Ox and so wanted to see what better options may be out there. I've read quite a bit about katalox light, although it seems like needs additional oxidation, and may be unproven. I'm just not sure. Open to any and all information. Thank you!
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
WX-251 would be good.

But the Pro-ox needs a lot of GPM.

7.5 gpm is bairly enough to backwash Katalox Light in a 10 inch tank. Not nearly enough to backwash Pro-Ox in a 10 inch tank.

If you could backwash for a minute, rest a minute, repeat a few times, the pressure tank could supply the flow rate. But you don't even know if you would get 30 seconds of fast-enough backwash because the tank could be nearly empty of water when you start the backwash.
 

Campervanman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Northeast
WX-251 would be good.

But the Pro-ox needs a lot of GPM.

7.5 gpm is bairly enough to backwash Katalox Light in a 10 inch tank. Not nearly enough to backwash Pro-Ox in a 10 inch tank.

If you could backwash for a minute, rest a minute, repeat a few times, the pressure tank could supply the flow rate. But you don't even know if you would get 30 seconds of fast-enough backwash because the tank could be nearly empty of water when you start the backwash.
Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Here's a stupid question. Well pump died in 2020 and went with plumbers recommendation on it's replacement. 3/4 HP, rated for 7GPM. I've not measured output since that was installed but if pump is rated 7GPM is it safe to assume that's what I have? The pump is Goulds 7CS07412CL. (I recalled incorrectly when I wrote 7.5 above)

Old system measured at 8.5GPM when we bought the house in 2014. I assumed plumber replaced like for like but that could be a bad assumption.

Assuming I have 7GPM any tips on options that might work?

Also, clean water store specified 9" tank with a posted 7GPM backwash. Might be optimistic or under ideal conditions?
 
Last edited:

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,497
Reaction score
575
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
The galvanized tank does not have a shrader valve and so cannot be pre-charged. I think that's part of the problem with short cycling.
First off, a HP tank normally does not get of keep a precharge in the same sense as a captive air tank. Any time the pressure drops below cut-in such as when drawing faster than the micronizer permits, some of the air (precharge) will move forward (escape).

A properly working micronizer would provide an excess of air to the HP tank. The micronizer however would restrict the GPM available for backwash.
 

Campervanman

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Northeast
First off, a HP tank normally does not get of keep a precharge in the same sense as a captive air tank. Any time the pressure drops below cut-in such as when drawing faster than the micronizer permits, some of the air (precharge) will move forward (escape).

A properly working micronizer would provide an excess of air to the HP tank. The micronizer however would restrict the GPM available for backwash.
Thanks for taking the time, LLigetfa.

I am planning to replace the galvanized tank with a bladder tank as part of this project. However, I appreciate the information on how my current system *should* be working!
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,497
Reaction score
575
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
I am planning to replace the galvanized tank with a bladder tank as part of this project.
Are you planning on moving or removing the micronizer? I advise not to put a micronizer in front of a bladder tank as it will get gunked up with iron.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks