Options for remote fill of air charge for bladder type storage tank

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by fyiman, Nov 9, 2019.

  1. fyiman

    fyiman New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2019
    Location:
    Chicago
    I've got a bladder type water storage tank (I think it's 30 gallon). It has an air/pressure valve (like a tire fill valve) on the top of the tank.

    The tank is located in a corner, with the water heater in front of it, and the furnace on the left of the storage tank. The wall/corner is behind and to the right of the storage tank.

    So, since the tank is significantly shorter than the water heater, it's basically (nearly) inaccessible.

    I want to run an air line to a remote gauge and fill valve so I can check and fill/adjust the tank pressure.

    I was curious about options for a remote fill setup.

    To do this "DIY", I need a compression fitting that will attach a hose/tube to the storage tank air fitting, which will keep the tank valve stem depressed, some hose/tubing, another compression fitting with 1/8" or 1/4" male pipe fitting, a "Tee", a gauge, and a fill valve with a pipe fitting.

    A also thought about looking at a fill kit for air-shocks instead of buying all the pieces individually (I assume this would be compatible).

    Then I was wondering if there are kits made specifically for this situation for water storage tanks.

    Am I on the right track? Other than sourcing issues, are there and features/advantages of one option over the others?
     
  2. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Any fittings you add to the Schrader valve coming out of the tank are just more opportunities for a leak. You can check the air charge in the tank without using a tire gauge. Just turn power off to the pump, open a faucet, and watch the water pressure gauge drop. it will drop slowly until the water is out of the tank, then it will drop instantly when the bladder hits the bottom. Slow drop to 38 PSI, then one big thump and an instant drop to zero means you have 38 PSI air in the tank. You shouldn't have to add air to that tank unless there is a problem. Then more likely you should just replace the tank if it loses air, as the bladder is probably torn, which is how the air gets out. Adding air is just a temporary stop gap to buy you a couple days before having to replace the tank. The bladder gets torn from too many on/off cycles over the years. Eliminating the cycling is the best way to keep from destroying the bladder in the tank. If you use a Cycle Stop Valve to eliminate the cycling, you can use as small as a 4.5 gallon size tank, and the whole tank can be remotely mounted where you can get to it.
     
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