Old cast iron flange that was installed incorrectly more than 25 years ago, maybe even longer.

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by LGM, Mar 24, 2020.

  1. LGM

    LGM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2020
    Location:
    Little Rock
    Redoing bathroom in a house built in late ‘60’s. The very old cast iron flange is installed incorrectly. The slots for the anchor bolts are front to back to a toilet instead of the sides. Either this was done when the house was built, or my dad completely botched this. I do remember coming home from college and water would come up underneath the toilet when the washer or dishwasher ran. Now I know why. (So many plastic shims too.). Now that I’ve stated the back story, how do I replace? My husband and I tried removing, but a piece broke off. I’ve seen the aluminum covers for broken flanges, but w the original set the wrong way, I’m guessing that won’t work either. I’ll come back to this and add better pictures.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    That flange had slots in the sides in the right place, and your dad used those. One of those is still in place, and the other is gone with the broken-off piece. [​IMG]

    What you want now is a repair ring. PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside. The toilet base will cover the ears. Alternatively, put a Hydroseat over that hole.

    https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/broken-closet-flange.56422/ has some pictures.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
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  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    FWIW, using the small slots is less prone to damage the flange. IOW, assuming you get it installed with the slots even with the wall, it's the better way to install a flange. Using the long, T-shaped ones works and may give you a bit more flexibility, but it is not necessarily better.

    Ideally, a flange is installed on TOP of the FINISHED floor. The toilet CANNOT wobble, or you'll create a leak when the wax compresses and the toilet rocks back. NOrmally isn't an issue unless there's a backup as the horn of the toilet typically dumps the waste down the middle of the flange. It is a problem if there's a backup, and always for sewer gas leaks.

    Setting a toilet is a two step process...set it down without wax to determine where, or if, it needs to be shimmed. Place those so it sits solid, then, pull it, and set it back down into new wax. A waxless seal usually can eliminate the first step, but you still need shims to keep it steady.
     
  5. LGM

    LGM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2020
    Location:
    Little Rock
    Thank you everyone. I’ve redone toilets before in my first home, so seeing the flange set differently was disheartening and irritating. I have a waxless seal already, and will get a repair ring. Yeah, at some point carpet was laid over the blue flooring (twice) that’s in the top picture. When it was removed is when the water was coming up and shims installed. All makes sense now.
     
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