Offset p-trap, Hansgrohe fixture, Ikea Sink -- Questions

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by MrFinPgh, Sep 4, 2015.

  1. MrFinPgh

    MrFinPgh New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    I'm hoping to wrap up my bathroom remodel this weekend and one of the last items on the list is installing the lav sink. Here's the configuration as it stands:

    1. The sink is a 16" wide Ikea Lillangen sink.
    2. The faucet I'd like to use is a Hansgrohe Tallis E -- this came with a pop-up drain.
    3. The drain coming out of the wall is an ABS p-trap drain.

    So, where I am running into some issues include the following:

    1. The faucet has integral supply lines, but they are about 6" too short to reach my hot and cold pipes. I don't know if I can find a 3/8 F to 3/8 M supply line, so my thinking was to use a 3/8 brass hex nipple to act like a union between the integral supplies an additional supply. Basically a splice. Is this going to work, or am I asking for trouble? Should I tape the threads on the nipple?

    2. Ikea includes a grid strainer and their special space saving drain setup with the sink, but I'd prefer to use the popup from the Hansgrohe. It matches, and I don't really need the extra shelf-room in the cabinet. But, I'm not sure this will work out because it looks as if the hole for the grid strainer is a bit large relative to the drain flange. The flange can still cover the entire hole, but the surface area - surface area is on the small side. Is there a good solution for this? I figured drains were a standardized thing, but I guess not.

    [​IMG]

    What's my best bet?
    Am I stuck with the grid strainer?
    Do they make a drain flange coupling that can help with that gap?

    3. The p-trap is sitting pretty low and to the right of the drain tailpiece. I guess I need to somehow get Part A connected to Part B without messing the flow of the water up too much. What's my best move in this regard? I was thinking that two 45s and a straight piece would get me there, but perhaps there is a better way?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The p-trap swivels. I would see if it makes it by swiveling first.
    You may need to cut some off where it meets the wall.
    From the lav drain, and extension. Or you can pick up a longer threaded tailpiece.
     
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  4. MrFinPgh

    MrFinPgh New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Thanks, Terry. I thought I had enough play to swivel the p-trap when I tried to install it this morning. If I back out the trap arm a lot, and pull things , I can sort of force it into place, but it pulls the drain's seal and there's a leak. It's close, but it seems like the trap is a bit behind the tailpiece and a little to the right, even with swiveling it to the left side.

    Here's a photo of what I mean

    [​IMG]

    I went to the home depot to see if they had anything that even looked like it would work, and I didn't see anything that looked viable, but maybe someone out there with more experience would know better.
     
  5. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    So you need two extensions. One from the wall, and one from the drain assembly.
     
  6. MrFinPgh

    MrFinPgh New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2015
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    sorry - I should have been clearer about that. I took the drain assembly extension off to try and show the offset. The issue is getting the drain extension into the p trap. The p trap is about an inch short from being able to hook up to the drain extension - even with swiveling and adjusting.
     
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Yes, and you need an extension from the wall too. If you bring the trap out farther from the wall, then the swivel should hit it.
     
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