New Woodford sillcock leaking?

[itsr-ent]

I just installed a new Woodford model 17 sillcock. Had an ancient one that leaked from the handle and decided to just replace it rather than repair, as I also wanted to move it to a new location. Old one was in the attached garage, but under a shelf...I moved it down a few feet so I didn't have to reach to use it.

When the sillcock is turned off, I'm afraid it seems to be leaking ever so slightly. It's a "17CP-12-MH", which is the 12" model. I know the frost free sillcocks do drip for a while, especially when the valve is 12" inside the house (I did install it sloped to the outside as required). It's not leaking from the handle or vacuum breaker, just from the hose attachment. I believe it's leaking because after sitting overnight, I can still feel moisture at the threaded hose adapter and the bucket I put underneath it has a few drops of water.

I used a 1/2 female threaded copper adapter, which I first attached to the sillcock, then soldered the pipe into. I wanted to solder it to the adapter separately and then thread it on, but used some Type L copper coil for the last connection and it was easier to align everything this way.



Could I have overheated the sillcock valve, even with the copper adapter putting the torch flame farther from the valve? I've installed these before (and soldered directly into the valve) without any issues. Should I buy a rebuild kit at Lowes and replace the parts? Tighten the packing nut? I'm not really familiar with what would be causing this type of leak.

Thanks!

 

[Cacher_Chick]

If you had the valve closed when you soldered it, you probably cooked the washer.

 

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[Smooky]

Lowes sells some Woodford parts. It sounds like you only need a rubber seat washer.

http://www.griggindustries.com/page18.html

 

[itsr-ent]

If you had the valve closed when you soldered it, you probably cooked the washer.

I had it open all the way when I soldered it, just like the ball valve. Only applied torch for 8 seconds.


Smooky - I'll pick up a rebuild kit and see if that works. Just disappointed, as I purposely buy the Woodford valves to avoid this issue!

 

[Jadnashua]

Have you called them? Certainly wouldn't hurt, might help figure out what's going on, and likely send parts for free. Not many torches can get a joint hot enough in 8-seconds to solder from my experience (admittedly, not huge, but I'd soldered a fair amount during repairs and remodels)...question the joint.

 

[itsr-ent]

Have you called them? Certainly wouldn't hurt, might help figure out what's going on, and likely send parts for free. Not many torches can get a joint hot enough in 8-seconds to solder from my experience (admittedly, not huge, but I'd soldered a fair amount during repairs and remodels)...question the joint.

Propane takes longer, but I was using a Berzomatic TS8000 with MAPP gas. Usually takes 8-10 seconds before the solder flows. I don't have a ton of soldering experience either though, but I haven't had one not hold up yet! I used to heat the joints way too much, copper all discolored, etc...did some experimenting and found that around 10 seconds with this particular torch, the solder flows and wicks around the fluxed joint nicely.

I called them -- they suggested taking another look, as they do take a while for all the moisture to drain out. I won't be using it for the next week, so I'll see what it looks like every few days and then call for parts if necessary.