New washer drain

[Stuart Richman]

Hi,

I want to move my new washer about 10 feet from the current location which drains directly into the utility sink.

The washer manual does not recommend a drain hose longer than 6 feet.

Could I install new drain piping (shown in in red box) to the utility sink drain as shown in the picture?

I would add a (1) standpipe by the new washer location for the washer drain hose, (2) a p trap below the stand pipe, then (3) an extension to the current drain location.

I would secure the new piping to eliminate any bounce.

Does the extension need to flow down or is level ok?

Thank you

 

[Reach4]

The washer manual does not recommend a drain hose longer than 6 feet.

I suggest that you extend that washer drain hose, or couple it to a pipe, and that extension drains into the laundry tub.

What WM manual says to not have a drain hose longer than 6 ft?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

It looks like you want to tie into a 11/2 line . DONT DO IT

 

[Stuart Richman]

I suggest that you extend that washer drain hose, or couple it to a pipe, and that extension drains into the laundry tub.

What WM manual says to not have a drain hose longer than 6 ft?

Hi @Reach4

It's an LG. See attached.

No more than 60" away.

Can you provide a bit more detial how to couple it to pipe.

 

[Stuart Richman]

It looks like you want to tie into a 11/2 line . DONT DO IT

Hi @Sylvan

Can you expand why not and offer maybe a solution.

TY

 

[Reach4]

No more than 60" away.

Personally, I would ignore that bit. I am not a plumber.

Can you provide a bit more detail how to couple it to pipe.

I can think about a couple ways. Put on a new long hose at the output of the machine? Or couple on an extension? I would look to see what the sizes are at each end of what you have.

I see things like https://www.amazon.com/Elyfree-Univ...Discharge/dp/B09M6V1V3Q/ref=asc_df_B09M6V1V3Q

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR18669Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B0CR18669Q

Another thing that comes to mind would be to couple the existing hose to a piece of 1-inch PVC, and run that over to discharge into the laundry sink. I would have to look at the piece you have to think of a way to do the coupling. You would want that coupling to block air and water.

 

[Sylvan]

Hi @Sylvan

Can you expand why not and offer maybe a solution.

TY

If you have an 11/2 " waste line the volume of discharge maybe too much for the waste line and case an overflow into the kitchen sink.

This why I normally discharge the waste into a slop sink or 2" standpipe going to 3" under ground

 

[Stuart Richman]

GM,

Happy Thanksgiving.

I have decided to solve the drain distance issue by moving the tub next to the washer's new location. The drain will meet the distance requirment of the installation instructions and use a tub as a buffer for the large flow from the washer. Since the drain will be greater than 3 feet from the orignal drain , I will run a horizontal pipe to the original drain and use air admittance valve (allowed in MD) just after the tubs trap.

 

[Reach4]

I think those LG washer instructions do not make sense, but they are what they are. So if the code says to follow the manufacturer's instructions, or if you want to follow the instructions, that is that.

So what was going through their heads? The 96 inches above the floor part is an industry standard. So they may have felt that was a stretch for their pump, and added in the 60 inches away bit to limit backpressure while keeping the 96-inch limit.

But let me throw some logic out.... From the prospective of a pump, what is limited it the total back-pressure (head). That is the sum of the static head due to altitude rise, plus the dynamic head due to friction. Head (back pressure) due to friction is lower with bigger diameter and the smoothness of the path. The corrugated hoses used in washer drain hoses will have higher back pressure than a smooth hose would. Sharp bends will have higher back-pressure than will more gentle paths. Bigger ID will have lower back-pressure.

Logically, you can trade altitude head for friction head. I think LG felt that going through that tradeoff would have been too complex for an instruction booklet.