New Bathroom

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Thanks very much Terry for your help; I really appreciate it.
I have a few more questions if you all have time. I've attached a photo of the main drain on the far left and the existing 2" drain connecting to it. This is the drain that currently services the washer and the utility sink. I have to run the 3" drain for the toilet, so I'm considering replacing this 2" with the 3" and connecting the existing vent system to this new 3" drain.

1. Most pictures I see of toilet drains show an immediate closet bend under the flange. Is there anything wrong with having the drain go straight to the
ground about 3 or 4 feet before leveling out to near horizontal?

2. How far from the fixture (toilet in this case) can the split-off for the vent be? Reason I'm asking is that if the vent "Y" connection to the vertical drain were closer to the ground, I may be able to run the vent at 45 degrees or so up to the adjacent wall where the vent is rather than a partially horizontal run as discussed above. I have read that the vent should be close to the fixture but I don't know what the drawbacks are of having it further away.

3. I know there's supposed to be at least 15" from the toilet center to the nearest wall or fixture. What if the toilet were in the corner facing diagonally outward? The bowl would be in spec, but not the back of the toilet since it's basically right next to each wall. Is this still considered in code since the sitting portion of the toilet is in spec?
Thanks again for your help...

 

[Terry]

Toilets can be vented within 6 feet.

I've also vented off the vertical with a wye fitting.

Or you could drop it farther down too like you mentioned.

If you're using a corner toilet, and you have 15" from center to the wall on the bowl portion you should be fine.

I'm not a fan of corner toilets. If Eljer quites making them, it will be a major replumb later.
I've installed them, I don't like where most people put them. Most of the time you're dodging things like lavs while sitting on them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Thanks again Terry.
From what you've said, I don't think I'll have to do the corner toilet. I don't really like that idea either, but the problem I'm having to work around is that the electrical panel (in the garage) is immediately behind where the toilet is sitting in the attached photo.
Attached are some shots with the fixtures sitting in a proposed location.
It's kind of tight, but I believe I'm in spec. There's about 28" from the edge of the toilet to the shower.

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

I meant to add that you'll note the connections on the wall where the old utility sink was. I just removed it today, so I guess this officially begins the bathroom plumbing.
You can see now though that I want to run the toilet vent into that wall where the utility sink is vented.
Do you think there will there be any sort of flush delay or something due to the vent connection being further away?

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Hi,
Please see the attached picture. This is a photo of a 3/4" cold water pipe. Looks like copper coming up from the ground. Is this the main water coming in from the street? This is the street side of the house.
I have in mind using PEX. I thought I'd connect a PEX copper manifold to each of the 3/4" pipes hot and cold and pex from there. I want to use the kind of manifold that has the valves on them. Question is; I've only seen those manifolds with multiple 1/2" connections. Does anyone know if they make a 3/4" manifold that has one 3/4" branch and the rest 1/2"? I'm asking because I've read that it's code to use 3/4" lines to the shower/tub only. Also, does the manifold need to be "sweated" onto the existing copper. Of the photos I've seen of the manifolds, I don't see how they connect. I wondered that since the idea of PEX is to be easy and not have to use a torch; is this one exception?

 

[Terry]

Connecting to the copper is your best bet.
It does look like the incoming water supply to your crawl space.

Any old galvanized pipe should be replaced at some point.

If you are using PEX, they have fittings that will either solder to copper, or can be threaded to copper adapters or the steel fittings.
You can also get complete manifolds or small manifolds depending on the situation.
It depends on the brand of PEX you are using as far as the connections go.

Most everything in the house uses a 1/2" supply.
Normally you would only have two fixtures on a 1/2" line and go to 3/4" when you add the third one.
for more than a one bath home, you would have 1" or larger.
The last time I plumbed a 3/4" water service was in the seventies for a one bath home.
Most homes are now getting 1-1/4" water services.

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Thanks Terry.
I took the basic layout to the permit guy today before I start any of the work. It's a small bathroom layout and I wanted to be sure the distances to everything is ok before starting.
Luckily he was a very nice guy and very helpful. Apparently, they're pretty flexible. Thanks again for getting back to me.

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Question about PEX Manifold

Hi,
I'm looking at a pex product called WaterPex. Any opinions?
Also looking at Ipex PlumbBetter. However the latter has no catalog I can download and doesn't appear to sell manifolds with their product.

Regardless of the manufacturer, I'm curious if I can use a pair of pex manifolds behind an access panel instead of individual valves for lavoratory/toilet, etc sticking out of the wall next to those fixtures?
That seems like a logical thing to do.

I thought about 3/4" open-ended manifold such that the output end could go to the shower for more pressure and the other mini-valve fittings would be 1/2" to all other fixtures. The manifold would be in the same wall as the shower.

Thanks...

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Hi,
any thoughts about the "Flair-it" system for pex?
No requirement for special tool appeals to me. Heard anything good/bad ?
See below...

The Flair-It plumbing system has been successfully used by
plumbers, manufacturers of RV’s, Manufactured Homes, and in the
Marine Industry since 1991. Designed for use in potable water
systems, the fittings are available in nominal tubing sizes.
3/8†ID X 1/2†OD
1/2†ID X 5/8†OD
5/8†ID X 7/8†OD
All Flair-It fittings are NSF listed and designed for hot and cold
water applications with pressure ratings that will exceed 160 psi @
73.4•F and 80 psi @ 200•F. The fittings can be used to make
repairs to PEX, polybutylene, copper, CPVC, galvanized pipe and
various plastic tubing.
The fittings require no tool, no glue, no solvents and no
wait. For transition from plastic to metal, we recommend using
Teflon tape and tightening with a wrench. There is a reverse thread
on the nut that grips the outside wall of the tubing securely to the
barbed tip as you tighten the nut; it’s a double locking thread system.
The only removable part is the nut, a design which we belive to be a
vast improvement on nut, cone and gripper ring fittings that can be
confusing and difficult to explain.

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

I'm curious if I can use a pair of pex manifolds behind an access panel instead of individual valves for lavoratory/toilet, etc sticking out of the wall next to those fixtures?

My inspector said this is ok as long as there's a shutoff value close by.

Anybody have opinion on the Flare-it product mentioned above ?

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Hi,
I've got my DWV layout pretty well mapped out to where I'm happy with it. Now I need to get my plan straight for the water supply.

I'm curious if I can use a pair of pex manifolds with shutoff values behind an access panel on the outside of the bathroom instead of individual valves for lavoratory/toilet, etc sticking out of the wall next to those fixtures? It seems if we have shutoff values for all fixtures right there, why should I put redundant shutoff valves at the lavoratory and toilet?
Would you do that or have you done that? If not, why?

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]

Ping...

Anybody got time to address this question ?
Thx.

 

[Jeff_Bathroom]