Need to replace a quarter turn ball valve with a full port ball valve to get full pressure outside the house for irrigations

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Mini Me

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Not sure if this a purely irrigation systems question, I think this is more like a plumbing question
I have the below system and I was told around there that that valve that valve that I have there is limiting the pressure and I should replace it with with a full port valve. I am planning to do that soon. Could you guys please tell me what type of valve I should be looking for
I think I need a male to male full port ball but I am not sure what this is called and what size I need
the garden hose is 5/8" (please see the link below)
the pipe that comes out of the wall is 1/2" copper with an adapter soldered there


mini-me-08[1].jpg


I have this garden hose connected there
 

LLigetfa

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You probably won't find a full port ball valve with garden hose thread at your big box store. Just use a standard ball valve with pipe thread. I doubt you will find one that is male-male so you will need to use a nipple. Add an adapter from pipe thread to garden hose thread on the output side.

That Y fitting probably has 1/4 inch ports so is more of a restriction than that valve upstream. That and the 100 foot hose you want to use will have more friction loss than the valve. You should consider industrial grade 3/4 inch garden hose. Alternately consider installing a yard hydrant closer to where you need water so you can use a shorter hose.
 

Reach4

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If using 4 gpm, what you have is probably sufficient. The hole in the ball in those valves is usually smaller than 3/8 inch.
 

LLigetfa

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I deliver water to portable washrooms with my work truck and it has an impeller pump with 50 foot 1/2 inch hose reel and no pressure tank. I have to use a full port ball valve on the end of the hose to keep the friction loss from tripping the pressure switch.

Originally it had a boiler drain valve that was not full port and the additional friction loss made it impossible to fine tune the pressure switch.

The impeller pump cannot build good pressure so the pressure switch has to be fine adjusted to keep it from short cycling the pump or deadheading it. Differences in elevation and water level in the tank are enough to throw it off so sometimes I have to fast close the ball valve to create water hammer to shut off the pump.
 

Mini Me

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Should I then ignore the full port valve option especially if it is not easy to find ?
All the Ys that I am seeing online and that match my hose will be like that I don't think that I have an option to preplace it with a better Y
 

Mini Me

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You probably won't find a full port ball valve with garden hose thread at your big box store. Just use a standard ball valve with pipe thread. I doubt you will find one that is male-male so you will need to use a nipple. Add an adapter from pipe thread to garden hose thread on the output side.

That Y fitting probably has 1/4 inch ports so is more of a restriction than that valve upstream. That and the 100 foot hose you want to use will have more friction loss than the valve. You should consider industrial grade 3/4 inch garden hose. Alternately consider installing a yard hydrant closer to where you need water so you can use a shorter hose.
What type of tap/spigot is this is this one ?
I need one that can replace the one in the initial picture
Is this one a good replacement https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rain-barrel-spigot-kit-rain-barrel-spigot/1000790102

I need to implement the below. (seen in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_K-xQHi6L0&ab_channel=iScaper1)
the left side goes to that 1/2" brided connector and from there to a metal pipe which connects to the 3/4" underground white PVC




5DMShTE.png
 

LLigetfa

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That rain barrel bulkhead spigot is not full port. If you were to look in the end of it you would see it is a traditional multi-turn with a seat and washer.
 

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Mini Me

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I went to Home Depot and showed the guys what I wanted to do. Here are the components of the solution, ignore the small green hose in the picture.
These are full 1/2" all the way to the hose
oJ6kp5R.jpeg
 

Mini Me

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That rain barrel bulkhead spigot is not full port. If you were to look in the end of it you would see it is a traditional multi-turn with a seat and washer.
yes I was giving up on the full port solution but then I went to the store and found the above solution
the only problem is that I do not have an on/off for each side of the Y splitter.
However one side will be the irrigation system (Orbit with inline valves 3/4") and the other side will be one of the new nozzles that has a way to control the volume, the left side one, I already bought the set from Costoco. I am thinking of attaching a short hose there or I could screw it straight to the right side of the Y
DMZNKcQ.png
 

Mini Me

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That y fitting with the gage replace it with a tee and bushing. Gage out the side port. That y valve has a small port.
Could you please point me to some example parts you have in mind. I am not very good with the terms used in the plumbing industry and I can't easily figure out what you meant
 

wwhitney

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What connections do you want to end up with to the supply at the wall? Just a hose bib and the underground sprinkler supply? Or also a permanent pressure gauge? Or two hose bibs and the underground sprinkler supply?

You are going to have to remove the existing quarter turn hose bib (shutoff the water upstream). Then divide your supply as required for the 2 or 3 connections you need, and install separate ball valves / hose bibs for each of those.

And to double check, is that copper female adapter in your photo 1/2" or 3/4"?

Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

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the gauge will be removed and so will be the existing splitter and spigot
It will be replaced with the components listed in the Home Depot picture
I need to transition from 3/4 hose adapter to the 3/4 metal pipe that sticks out of the ground (metal because it is exposed)
I am trying to implement what is in this video but without the brided connector that would be a bottle neck now
I think I also need a solution to direct the splitter vertically down as all this monstrosity will be sticking out of the wall way too far and big
Here is a drawing with how fort I could go with this
9ixIwW2.png
 

Mini Me

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What connections do you want to end up with to the supply at the wall? Just a hose bib and the underground sprinkler supply? Or also a permanent pressure gauge? Or two hose bibs and the underground sprinkler supply?

You are going to have to remove the existing quarter turn hose bib (shutoff the water upstream). Then divide your supply as required for the 2 or 3 connections you need, and install separate ball valves / hose bibs for each of those.

And to double check, is that copper female adapter in your photo 1/2" or 3/4"?

Cheers, Wayne
the copper female adapter is 1/2" copper I belive
the existing spigot is 1/2" to 3/4" hose thread (called MHT from what I am reading)
The diagram posted above was wrong all the threads should be MIP (I keep mixing these things since I am not operating with them on a daily basis)
 

wwhitney

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So get a brass (lead free) 1/2" street tee and thread the male end (with thread sealant and two wrenches) into your 1/2" female copper adapter, with the side opening pointing towards your irrigation hookup Then get a 1/2" MIP hose bib of your liking, with a built-in vacuum breaker. That goes into the straight inlet on the tee. And a 1/2" MIP x 1/2" FIP full port ball valve goes into the side opening on the tee, and then you connect the 1/2" FIP outlet to your irrigation system, which needs an appropriate backflow preventer

Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

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So you are suggesting to use a fitting like the one highlighted below. (vacuum breaker and backflow preventers not represented)
The problem is that I can't find one that is MIP everything I can find with the name street tee is NPT, and mostly 1 male 2 female like this one


JrkBgqB.png
 

wwhitney

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MIP = male NPT




Cheers, Wayne
 

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wwhitney

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MIP and NPT are tapered, NPS is not.

All the parts I linked to are tapered, as is your copper female adapter.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Mini Me

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My copper female adapter needed tape so it is not tappered. From what I read the tapperd fittings don't need tape
 
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