Need plumbing help connecting Electric Water heater

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AndyHFL

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Hello all,

Just became member to ask a question on how to connect a Rheem Electric Hot water heater with flexible metal hoses to make it easier for future replacement can figure out what all the parts needed for the hot and PRV connections, but the cold side is tricky due to the pressure regulator.

I appreciate if someone can give me the parts needed for the cold side connections.

Thanks in advance.

Andy

20210925_205607.jpg
 

Reach4

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I think that is a water heater vacuum relief valve and its only installed on bottom fed water heaters.
I think lots of people recommend those, even for top-fed, if the WH is not on the bottom floor.
 

Jeff H Young

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I think that is a water heater vacuum relief valve and its only installed on bottom fed water heaters. Just speculate doesn't look like the vacuum relief valves why the 2 pipes running to it?
 

Reach4

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For some rules and reasons regarding a vacuum relief valve on WHs, try this Google search:
"vacuum relief valve" "water heater" "second floor" OR "second story"
 

Jeff H Young

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For some rules and reasons regarding a vacuum relief valve on WHs, try this Google search:
"vacuum relief valve" "water heater" "second floor" OR "second story"
I'm not convinced a vacuum relief was installed all the ones I see have only single pipe and a vacuum breaker on top.
 

Reach4

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Im not convinced a vaccum relief was installed all the ones I see have only single pipe and a vaccum breaker on top.
Good point. Vacuum breakers usually have some kind of mushroom head. But if not that, then what is it? A tee with a plug where the thermal expansion tank used to be?
 

Jeff H Young

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If anyone knows what it is let me know , I cant answer that , like to know and if you think its a vac relief explain why its different?
 

Reach4

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Andy, if you are still around, are there any letters or numbers on that highest fitting? If so, could you post a photo of that, or tell us what the writing says?
 

AndyHFL

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Andy, if you are still around, are there any letters or numbers on that highest fitting? If so, could you post a photo of that, or tell us what the writing says?

This is a 75 PSI Pressure Regulator Valve. I found the part in Lowes to see what it is, also asked a local plumber if it is needed, and he answered yes.

Can some one draw a simple diagram of what parts I need if I want to install the next electric hot water heater using flexible metal hoses? Also, metal hoses with sharkbite would make the job easier, would it be reliable long term, or I should use CPVC to Brass coupling to connect the 4 hoses to the existing CPVC pipes?

Thanks in Advance.

PR.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

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This is a 75 PSI Pressure Regulator Valve. I found the part in Lowes to see what it is, also asked a local plumber if it is needed, and he answered yes.

Can some one draw a simple diagram of what parts I need if I want to install the next electric hot water heater using flexible metal hoses? Also, metal hoses with sharkbite would make the job easier, would it be reliable long term, or I should use CPVC to Brass coupling to connect the 4 hoses to the existing CPVC pipes?

Thanks in Advance.

I'm all ears and stumped why 3 pipes going toward heater a 75 psi regulator for what? is one of the pipes from the wall the main and all water comes from this location hot and cold?
Sorry more questions than answers a pretty cheesy regulator if its to reduce pressure to the house and 75 psi is too high . So I don't get it ? never seen that on a house in 35 years
 

Reach4

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Mystery solved. Pressure relief valve is being used in lieu of a thermal expansion tank. This method is not recommended for areas with water shortages.
This is a 75 PSI Pressure Regulator Valve. I found the part in Lowes to see what it is, also asked a local plumber if it is needed, and he answered yes.
What you show is a pressure relief valve. If the pressure gets higher than 75 psi, it passes water. These are commonly used on wells to prevent deadheading due to a failure of the pressure switch to cut off.

The title description in that listing is not good. The bullet points are correct.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/STAR-Water-Systems-Brass-Pressure-Regulator/1000667271 is the link that you snipped the image from.

pressure-regulator-star.jpg


https://www.farmandhomehardware.com...12-in-70-psi-pressure-relief-valve?SKU=464697 has a correct description.

A 75 psi relief valve seems low for a WH usually, but you might use something like a 1oo psi or 120 psi one. Yet if you trusted the city to provide much less than 75 psi, then the 75 psi unit would do the job.
 
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Jeff H Young

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its not a pressure relief valve you see a relief valve on the tank he called it pressure regulator? again I don't get it I clearly see pressure relief valve. Editing I see the description calls it a pressure regulator then calls it a relief valve ? So why 2 reliefs and why 75 psi? I'd rip that crap out and figure it out and see where the the pipe goes outside to ground perhaps?
 

Reach4

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its not a pressure relief valve you see a reief valve on the tank he called it pressure regulator? again I dont get it I clearly see preesure relief valve
The T&P releases at about 150 psi.

You don't want to (and are not allowed to) have the T&P to serve as the thermal expansion relief. So a lower-pressure relief valve can release the thermal expansion pressure. This method has become less popular, and I expect is forbidden in dry areas. I think even parts of FL have droughts.

This one releases at 125 psi: https://www.sharkbite.com/products/thermal-expansion-relief-valve
Watts has a combination relief and ball valve, with versions that release at 80 psi and 125 psi. https://www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20410-source/es-lfbrv-pdf
 
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Jeff H Young

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oh kind of mickey mouse substitute for an expansion tank? big difference between a pressure relief valve and a pressure regulator My folks live in Florida they charge a lot for water have 2 meters one with the sewage reclaim water so I guess they wouldn't waste money on it if they don't have water issues.
 

Terry

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It's pretty common some places if you can't daylight the T&P downward.
To prevent the T&P from soaking things when it releases pressure, they will add a pressure only relief of a lower set pressure, higher up in the plumbing where it can be drained downward safely.
Where I'm at, that is normally a 125 PSI relief drained downward, and the water heater gets the standard Temperature and Pressure that comes set for 150 PSI.
I would leave it in place, it's doing it's job.
 

Jeff H Young

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we put expansion tanks here if needed.
after further thought the tand p probebly runs to the foor so they figure by running the second relief valve at a lower setting they should never have water on the floor. the second relief valve can go any where so getting it to drain outside by gravity might be easier .
To each thier own and I dont know if this is a legal installation is IPC land or my home UPC but seems hokey and wont be following this method, likely ever
 
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AndyHFL

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The other end of the pipe is outside of the house , 6 inches off of GND and facing down. Is it just serving the water heater or the whole house?

Not using it makes it much easier to install the new water heater with flexible hoses.

Also, metal hoses with sharkbite would make the job easier, would it be reliable long term, or I should use CPVC to Brass coupling to connect the 4 hoses to the existing CPVC pipes?
 
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