Need help with back to wall plumbing configuration plz.

Users who are viewing this thread

Erick Didonato

New Member
Messages
28
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
C499EADB-9CB6-48FC-83AB-C5E74552EFD0.jpeg


Pictured is our kids bathroom which we are going removing the old toilet flange to install a back to wall toilet with a behind the wall water tank for that toilet from Swiss Madison. Currently the bay where our vent stack is where the water tank for toilet needs to be. I have access to remove the roof stack to go in the next bay over though my question is how do I pipe this so that I can pick up the back to wall toilet in one bay , vanity sink drains in another bay all while taking the vent out of the next bay? Sorry for any confusion. Currently the pipe is 3” and my thought was to put a wye in the pipe in the floor joist and to go through one floor joist to pick the vanity sinks and reconnect to the stack which will be in that next bay though how do I vent the toilet? Thank you in advance for your help.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
"Back to wall" is a new term to me, but it's plumbed like a wall hung toilet (rear discharge), it just sits on the floor like a regular toilet.

Your drain path for the toilet should all be in the current joist bay, you'll just have the appropriate 90 to mate with the toilet's rear discharge, then a LT90 to go horizontal into the joist bay.

Your photo shows two small diameter horizontal drains, what is the lower one? That's the one uncertainty in my suggestions.

Hopefully you can fit a 3" x 1-1/2" (or 2" if I am misjudging the size in the photo) san-tee between the two 90s on the toilet drain path. That would bring in the lavatory (and the other fixture) and wet vent the toilet. So the lavatory vent take off would be an upright combo in the stud bay to the right of the toilet. The vent could rise up in that stud bay and cross over to meet up with the existing vent. You don't need a full 3" vent under the IPC, so you can just keep the roof termination at 3" (good for cold climates, avoids having to work on the roof) and run the smaller vent to meet up with it at the top of the wall or in the attic.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Erick Didonato

New Member
Messages
28
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
"Back to wall" is a new term to me, but it's plumbed like a wall hung toilet (rear discharge), it just sits on the floor like a regular toilet.

Your drain path for the toilet should all be in the current joist bay, you'll just have the appropriate 90 to mate with the toilet's rear discharge, then a LT90 to go horizontal into the joist bay.

Your photo shows two small diameter horizontal drains, what is the lower one? That's the one uncertainty in my suggestions.

Hopefully you can fit a 3" x 1-1/2" (or 2" if I am misjudging the size in the photo) san-tee between the two 90s on the toilet drain path. That would bring in the lavatory (and the other fixture) and wet vent the toilet. So the lavatory vent take off would be an upright combo in the stud bay to the right of the toilet. The vent could rise up in that stud bay and cross over to meet up with the existing vent. You don't need a full 3" vent under the IPC, so you can just keep the roof termination at 3" (good for cold climates, avoids having to work on the roof) and run the smaller vent to meet up with it at the top of the wall or in the attic.

Cheers, Wayne


Appreciate the feedback Wayne. I’m trying to understand what you described in regards to the 90 coming out of the toilet to the San-tee connection. Can you by any chance draw that out or explain that a little better please. The two 1 ½ pipes where from the double vanity sink.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
Yeah, so that lower elbow in the picture Tuttle was kind enough to post, if it's high enough off the floor that you can fit a 3" x 2" san-tee above the floor below the elbow, and if there's room to get a 2" pipe past the carrier (doubtful now that I look at it), then you can do that, with a LT 90 below the san-tee to turn into the joist bay and connect to the existing 3" drain. You could then do a layout like in the picture below, where green = 3", red = 2", blue = 1-1/2", (and brown lines = framing I erased). I probably have the double fixture fitting in the wrong stud bay but you can move it over to where you want. Likewise the upper horizontal red line (vent) can be any height at least 6" above the flood rim of the lavatories. (And the vent could be 1-1/2" under the IPC, although I drew it as 2".)

If you can't get around that metal carrier, then instead of using a 3x2 san-tee in the wall, you can use a 3x3x2 wye (or combo) horizontal (flat, 2% slope) in the joist bay and bring the lav drain in that way (and that might be preferable for other reasons, don't know). The 2" combined lav drain would go down into the floor system with a LT90 and then turn to drill through 1-3 joists to hit that 3x3x2 wye or combo.

Cheers, Wayne

Markup.jpg
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
if there's room to get a 2" pipe past the carrier (doubtful now that I look at it)
Although, with a back to wall toilet, there should be no need for a metal carrier, as the toilet just sits on the floor. So I'm unclear on what the in wall portion will look like.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
With the carrier in the wall, you would wye off for the lavs and the venting.
A 3x2 wye would work in most cases, unless you really need a 3" vent up through the roof there.

swiss-madison-toilet-blue.jpg
 

Erick Didonato

New Member
Messages
28
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
With the carrier in the wall, you would wye off for the lavs and the venting.
A 3x2 wye would work in most cases, unless you really need a 3" vent up through the roof there.

swiss-madison-toilet-blue.jpg


Thank you so much for the replies gentlemen. Can I do the wye 3x2 horizontally in the floor joist to the vanity sinks and then up to roof sink? I do not have enough room below the toilet 90 to put a San-tee (suggested by Wayne prior).
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
You can go horizontally with a wye to the next joist bay, pick up the two bathroom sinks with 2" or larger, and that will also wet vent the toilet.
2" would be enough for the lav/wet vent portion.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks