DR-DEATH
Member
Ok thank you. You guys have been so helpful and I really appreciate the help. Will update when they are back.
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Congrats on the install!
The price was reasonable.
The ODR is kind of difficult to dial in during a shoulder season. I've kind of come to the conclusion that until I really get to know my system well I'll use a temporary reset curve that works now.... then re-tweak it during the real winter season.
BTW... what were the results of the combustion analysis?
My UFT was pretty close to factory spec on commissioning, another fellow I know w/the same boiler did require some adjusting.
Generally you'd like to have 1-2gpm going through each zone.Should I at least put the pump on constant pressure? Which setting would you recommend as I'm not sure about head etc.
FWIW- the gas valve adjustment screw only adjusts the low fire air/gas mix, you can only observe the high fire readings- there is no adjustment for it.Everything seemed to be running within factory spec out of the box. Running the dip switch on low fire while testing showed 98% effeciency, not sure what high fire was though. Stills makes a Perkolating noise so I'll keep an eye on that. The plumber said he was going to call HTP to see what they say about the noise.
Generally you'd like to have 1-2gpm going through each zone.
The minimum flow rate for the UFt-80 is 1 GPM, so don't go below that.
Does your pump have a display like the Alpha that indicates GPM rate?
Your installer should have calculated your system head and set and tested the pump.
That shouldn't be left up to the homeowner to determine the CH pump settings.
Without a display on the pump or a flowmater/circuit setter installed- you'll have to do a rough system head calculation, set the pump accordingly and keep an eye on the SWT and RWT of your zones.
It will hit hi-limit and cycle on/off during a single heat call.... yes, bad for the boiler.
This is awkward, but...
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