If you're hearing sizzle & pop from the heat exchanger it's usually a symptom of low system pressure.
There is on the underside. I know before they left the released some pressure. Not sure what it's running at currently though. Maybe 20 when it was around 122 f but I maybe wrong.Is there a pressure gauge?
I do recall a slight whine/hiss coming from the controller board... I think it was coming from the gas leak detector device....I noticed what seems to be an electrics noise coming from the main board. It's like a er er er noise. Not very loud but there. Does yours do that as well?
Until your boiler has run for several hours there will be some air in your system, also there is air entrained in water which will be released by heating over time, so for some time before both trapped and entrained air exit.. you will hear some percolating sounds on heating cycles.While running, the outdoor reset set the low temp at 84 and high temp at 120 something. It's only around (55f out) I watched the temp rise to 122 or so and then the boiler started making like crackling noises. Sounded like boiling water. Is that normal to hear as well?
-The CH pump should not be mounted at an angle- it's shaft should be parallel to the floor... get the pump install manual and verify that. Mounting it at an angle will shorten pimp life and trap air.
-Dirt strainers are recommended for Mod-cons, a combo unit like the Caleffi DirtMag Dirt Separator with Magnet should be used when a ECM CH pump is used... it is also an air remover vs. the old school air scoop. The dirt strainer recommendation is on page 10 of the install manual.
-Your flame is normal- the orange glow is from the ceramic fiber liner inside the combustion chamber. Mine looks like that too, you have to get very close to the port to see the actual flames... which will be blue.
-You must do a combustion analysis to ensure proper combustion along with gas pressure readings... see installer manual page 67.
Here's pg 10 regarding the strainer... there's also a mention of a strainer on pg 62 (item 3.).
That's pretty much identical to what I was hearing for the first few firings of my UFT also. It subsided after a couple of days IIRC.
I still get the occasional "perk" sound once in a while. I think these boilers are very sensitive to even tiny amounts of air in the system... which is why you need a really good air separator.
Your observation port into the combustion chamber looks normal too.
D_D you mentioned the need for a zone controller?
If you're just using simple motorized zone valves with end switches- you don't need an expensive zone controller.
My T-stats are Z-Wave network T-stats which require the "C" wire for 24v power- if you have standard 2-wire T-stats- just omit the "C" wire connection to the T-stats in the diagram
Ok when they come back I'll show them your diagram. They called HTP in front of me and the guy definitely did say I had to have a zone controller but yeah^ The installers had something miss-wired then.
Once the zone vlave motor reaches the end of travel- it activates the end switch which produces a contacts closure.... super simple.
It should be very easy to troubleshoot this issue because the concept and circuit is so basic.