Moving a Toilet

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GatorHawk

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It's a real phenomenon, but usually only a problem with larger diameter pipes at slopes slightly greater than code maximums. I don't think the angle required to connect the horizontal combo wye to the toilet flange would experience such problems because liquids and solids would be moving fast. I just don't know if it's "allowed," or why it wouldn't be allowed.
 

Jeff H Young

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It's a real phenomenon, but usually only a problem with larger diameter pipes at slopes slightly greater than code maximums. I don't think the angle required to connect the horizontal combo wye to the toilet flange would experience such problems because liquids and solids would be moving fast. I just don't know if it's "allowed," or why it wouldn't be allowed.
there is no maximum fall. 1/4 inch per foot is the minimum at least in my code yours might allow 1/8th but 1/4 is what we run minimum
 

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Gatorhawk, give it good grade 1/4 per foot no less . the 90 isn't going to kill you you'll be fine . 2 45s or a wye and a 45 is better but the long sweep will flow without problem . nice cuts and no burrs helps I don't see a problem . other than cracking that slab and digging it out!

This has been my assumption from the moment I uncovered the trap arm connecting to the combo (I wish the original plumber had used a wye). I was just hoping for some support from code that it was all good.
 

Jeff H Young

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This has been my assumption from the moment I uncovered the trap arm connecting to the combo (I wish the original plumber had used a wye). I was just hoping for some support from code that it was all good.
oh your talking about the degrees of bend. that might be shakey on code, not sure your wording Im guessing you are under IPC and not UPC code . nothing wrong with cutting it out and putting a wye in another hour of work and a wye and a couple bands instead of a long sweep 20 bucks or so parts. just go ahead and do it that way then no need to worry about it just go the extra mile to have what you want.
 

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oh your talking about the degrees of bend. that might be shakey on code, not sure your wording Im guessing you are under IPC and not UPC code . nothing wrong with cutting it out and putting a wye in another hour of work and a wye and a couple bands instead of a long sweep 20 bucks or so parts. just go ahead and do it that way then no need to worry about it just go the extra mile to have what you want.

I'm under IPC in Alabama. I'm specifically talking about the horizontal trap arm, as shown on the second sketch from my first post (if I'm allowed to do it as drawn, by code). I'm concerned about the two 90 degree bends (long sweep 90 directly into a combination wye). I hadn't considered rotating the sweep 90 up 45 degrees (to consider it "vertical" by code) and then using a 45 degree closet flange (assuming I have the room to make that work). *Thank you, Wayne, for the thought.

My back-up plan has always been to cut everything out and replace the segment with new 4 inch pipe and a wye for the new toilet location. I know that's the "best" solution, but it will be a huge pain and about an extra day worth of work, for reasons that I've mentioned before. The cut-and-replace method will also shut down all bathrooms in our house until the work is finished (since this bathroom is downstream from the other one). So, add the cost of sending my family on a weekend vacation without me, while I get the work done, to the price of parts...:(

- Jay
 

Reach4

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I'm under IPC in Alabama. I'm specifically talking about the horizontal trap arm, as shown on the second sketch from my first post (if I'm allowed to do it as drawn, by code).
I thought that was covered-- you are not allowed to have the toilet waste to join non-bathroom waste before it has been vented. While you did not show in that picture what was upstream, and I don't know what an S-cap is, I assume there is non-bathroom waste passing under that "S-cap".
 

Jeff H Young

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I'm under IPC in Alabama. I'm specifically talking about the horizontal trap arm, as shown on the second sketch from my first post (if I'm allowed to do it as drawn, by code). I'm concerned about the two 90 degree bends (long sweep 90 directly into a combination wye). I hadn't considered rotating the sweep 90 up 45 degrees (to consider it "vertical" by code) and then using a 45 degree closet flange (assuming I have the room to make that work). *Thank you, Wayne, for the thought.

My back-up plan has always been to cut everything out and replace the segment with new 4 inch pipe and a wye for the new toilet location. I know that's the "best" solution, but it will be a huge pain and about an extra day worth of work, for reasons that I've mentioned before. The cut-and-replace method will also shut down all bathrooms in our house until the work is finished (since this bathroom is downstream from the other one). So, add the cost of sending my family on a weekend vacation without me, while I get the work done, to the price of parts...:(

- Jay

or point the LS90 straight up and then put a 1/4 bend med sweep pointed to center of toilet. and not fight standing on your head in a 3 foot deep hole. I guess Ive plumbed it like that a thousand times without issue except instead of a 1/4 bend a santee but the bends are all the same. this work is ultra common work we arent breaking new ground here or reinventing anything. it will take 30 minutes tops to glue a 90 on then the family can run all the water they want
 

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The "S" is an arrow pointing to the cap I plan to use to eliminate a non-vented tub/shower drain. Since it's a vertical tee off the main line, it shouldn't be considered a dead-end. It will serve no purpose, and I'm unaware of a specific code for why I can't just cap it off (hence my first question). There is a 3 inch vent just downstream (within 2 feet) of where the combo wye connects to the main line. The kitchen and laundry then connect further downstream on the main line before exiting the house, toward the street.
 

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or point the LS90 straight up and then put a 1/4 bend med sweep pointed to center of toilet. and not fight standing on your head in a 3 foot deep hole. I guess Ive plumbed it like that a thousand times without issue except instead of a 1/4 bend a santee but the bends are all the same. this work is ultra common work we arent breaking new ground here or reinventing anything. it will take 30 minutes tops to glue a 90 on then the family can run all the water they want


Yes, it's such a simple solution, that I'm a little annoyed with myself for not thinking of it, and was a little mentally stuck on the annoyance of finding a combo wye instead of a a regular wye.

Thank you all for your feed back.
 

GatorHawk

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What is coming in from upstream -- under and past the cap?

The second bathroom is upstream (lav, tub/shower, and toilet), terminating at the back of the house with a clean out. I assume the tub in the other bathroom is not vented (like the one I'm capping), which means that the 2 inch vent at the lav carries the load for that entire bathroom.
 

Reach4

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The second bathroom is upstream (lav, tub/shower, and toilet), terminating at the back of the house with a clean out. I assume the tub in the other bathroom is not vented (like the one I'm capping), which means that the 2 inch vent at the lav carries the load for that entire bathroom.
It may well be that the remaining tub is wet-vented. You would check the piping to make sure.


Then I think you would be good with your toilet connection. See page 12 of https://wabo.memberclicks.net/assets/pdfs/Plumbing_Venting_Brochure_2018.pdf
 

GatorHawk

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Gatorhawk I understand the concern you never want a clogged drain !

Absolutely! And, I'd rather discuss, contemplate, and defend what I'm thinking with other folks BEFORE I make changes than try to figure out where I went wrong after the pipes are in, soil packed, concrete poured, and tile laid...
 

GatorHawk

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It may well be that the remaining tub is wet-vented. You would check the piping to make sure.

It could be, but I won't know until I break into that bathroom for its remodel. I was surprised that the tub I removed was not vented at all (kind of explains why it drained so slowly).
 

Reach4

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Did the tub you removed have a drum trap? Those did not need venting.

With an AAV, you could vent a tub.
 

Jeff H Young

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gatorhawk I looked over this again and noticed a lot of this is guessing on whats under the slab. an unvented trap on a tub is highly unusual, I wouldnt guess that to be unvented but maybe all the walls are open and youve dug some of it out?
 

GatorHawk

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Did the tub you removed have a drum trap? Those did not need venting.

With an AAV, you could vent a tub.

The house was built in 1982. Not sure if s-traps were allowed then, but that's effectively what's there. No vent (wet or dry), drum trap, or AAV. I dug down to the main before I started digging over for the toilet.
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