Metal cover for PEX rough in ..is there any way to avoid screwing the cover through the tiles?

[Mini Me]

In the instructions, 5.1 and 5.2 show opposite directions of applying the tape. 5.1 is correct, 5.2 is wrong.

Cheers, Wayne

Correct! I did not see that

 

[Fitter30]

Can u get to the back side of the wall?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mini Me]

Can u get to the back side of the wall?

get like in what ? Remove the tile or drill to get to the wall?
I can do both the problem is that the hole for the rough in is too wide and the holes for the cover will get too close to that and an anchor will expand and crack the tile if the tile does not get cracked during the drilling which is problematic because I am too close to the edge of the rough in hole

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?

What is the edge margin for the tile? From the photo it looks like there should be plenty of room to get a small hole drilled with at least 1/4" between holes.

 

[Mini Me]

I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?

What is the edge margin for the tile? From the photo it looks like there should be plenty of room to get a small hole drilled with at least 1/4" between holes.

I tried to drill in some left over tile pieces and they cracked .... maybe I used the wrong drill bit, I used these https://www.homedepot.ca/product/av...-for-glass-tile-drilling-4-pieces-/1001621487

takes a lot of force to make them drill -they are crap

 

[Mini Me]

I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?

see this thread https://terrylove.com/forums/index....pipe-due-to-weird-coupling.97906/#post-704318

 

[Reach4]

get like in what ? Remove the tile or drill to get to the wall?
I can do both the problem is that the hole for the rough in is too wide and the holes for the cover will get too close to that and an anchor will expand and crack the tile if the tile does not get cracked during the drilling which is problematic because I am too close to the edge of the rough in hole

Your last sentence was not as understandable as you thought it was.

Is the tile porcelain tile?

Anyway, I would consider a right-angle stop valve at the wall, and then hide all of your adapting behind that European toilet skirt.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sharkbite-compression-angle-stop-chrome-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-/1000792771

 

[wwhitney]

I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?

My take is that the current plan for assembling the valve and various adapters to the end of the PEX stubout is going to put a non-trivial amount of weight on the cantilevered PEX. The metal sleeve would restrain the PEX and take some of the weight, if it is rigidly mounted.

Try the silicone suggestion, tape the sleeve in place where you want it, give it 24 hours to cure. If the silicone fails, you'll be able to scrape it off and research other options. You could always (destructively) remove the one tile and reinstall a new tile with a smaller hole for the PEX and predrilled holes for the cover.

Can u get to the back side of the wall?

I believe the OP said that the tile is applied over strapping/insulation over a basement cement block wall, so that would not be possible.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mini Me]

Your last sentence was not as understandable as you thought it was.

Is the tile porcelain tile?

Anyway, I would consider a right-angle stop valve at the wall, and then hide all of your adapting behind that European toilet skirt.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sharkbite-compression-angle-stop-chrome-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-/1000792771

the shut off valve has a filter and a backflow preventer like piece in it, can't remove it

 

[Mini Me]

My take is that the current plan for assembling the valve and various adapters to the end of the PEX stubout is going to put a non-trivial amount of weight on the cantilevered PEX. The metal sleeve would restrain the PEX and take some of the weight, if it is rigidly mounted.

Try the silicone suggestion, tape the sleeve in place where you want it, give it 24 hours to cure. If the silicone fails, you'll be able to scrape it off and research other options. You could always (destructively) remove the one tile and reinstall a new tile with a smaller hole for the PEX and predrilled holes for the cover.


I believe the OP said that the tile is applied over strapping/insulation over a basement cement block wall, so that would not be possible.

Cheers, Wayne

the tile is attached to the wall using silicone and "grouted" with matching silicone so in theory I could remove it, I installed it like that having in mind this type of problems but I would not do it just for this
I think minimzing the hardware used and using a shorted braided connected there should diminish the problem
if I can find a way to properly attach that cover/plate that would be very good

 

[John Gayewski]

the shut off valve has a filter and a backflow preventer like piece in it, can't remove it

Do what reach and I both now said.

 

[Mini Me]

It think that the best solution here will be to use two of these

and drill two new holes in the plate so that 1 and 2 overlap 3 and 4 in the picture !!

 

[WorBry]

Here is a picture of what I am dealing with
I am not crazy about having to drill next to the existing hole there
Besides that there is a long way to the cinder blocks, I need to go through the tile+thinset, drywall and expanded polystyrene insulation so I will have little control on how an anchor will attach to the wall and I would need long and thin screws
Is there any other way to install this ?
The PEX will take a sharkbite at the end

View attachment 79876

@ Mini Me,

I'm just finishing a bathroom re-model, tiled throughout. All of the existing Poly B pipe was replaced with Pex. I had a plumber in to do that. The 1/2" stub-out for the toilet was anchored with J-clamps to 2x4 cross-piece set in the wood frame. It's passing through 1/2" dry wall, 10mm glazed ceramic tile plus around 1/4" thinset.

There's no wiggle. Still I'd like to secure and cover it with a chrome tube and flange largely for aesthetics. I'll be using Waterline Push'N'Connect chrome angle stop valve.

Looks like the one shown in your photo is a Keeney (K857-30) 'Pex Stub-Out Support and Cover' ? Is that what you ended up using with the Sharkbite coupling?

Can't find it in the local stores (Montreal area) - I'd have to order from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/Plumb-Pak-Keeney-Mfg-K857-30/dp/B07N7FVXPX

As you were at the time, I’m just a bit hesitant about drilling so close to the 1” hole in the tile the pipe passes through.

There are also four 1/2” stub-outs for the double vanity.

Two of them were securely anchored to the studs. The other two were passed behind and over 1-1/2" drain/vent pipe and secured with plastic ties. With those there is a bit of lateral wiggle – reducing the tile hole size to 3/4” helped, but not completely. Since they are hidden from view, I’m not bothered about aesthetics. Which would be better – filling the holes around the pipes with grout or silicone caulk ?

Cheers.