Correct! I did not see thatIn the instructions, 5.1 and 5.2 show opposite directions of applying the tape. 5.1 is correct, 5.2 is wrong.
Cheers, Wayne
Correct! I did not see thatIn the instructions, 5.1 and 5.2 show opposite directions of applying the tape. 5.1 is correct, 5.2 is wrong.
Cheers, Wayne
get like in what ? Remove the tile or drill to get to the wall?Can u get to the back side of the wall?
I tried to drill in some left over tile pieces and they cracked .... maybe I used the wrong drill bit, I used these https://www.homedepot.ca/product/av...-for-glass-tile-drilling-4-pieces-/1001621487I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?
What is the edge margin for the tile? From the photo it looks like there should be plenty of room to get a small hole drilled with at least 1/4" between holes.
see this thread https://terrylove.com/forums/index....pipe-due-to-weird-coupling.97906/#post-704318I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?
Your last sentence was not as understandable as you thought it was.get like in what ? Remove the tile or drill to get to the wall?
I can do both the problem is that the hole for the rough in is too wide and the holes for the cover will get too close to that and an anchor will expand and crack the tile if the tile does not get cracked during the drilling which is problematic because I am too close to the edge of the rough in hole
My take is that the current plan for assembling the valve and various adapters to the end of the PEX stubout is going to put a non-trivial amount of weight on the cantilevered PEX. The metal sleeve would restrain the PEX and take some of the weight, if it is rigidly mounted.I still don't understand what the issue is with this. What actual purpose does the sleeve serve that it needs to be screwed into the tile?
I believe the OP said that the tile is applied over strapping/insulation over a basement cement block wall, so that would not be possible.Can u get to the back side of the wall?
the shut off valve has a filter and a backflow preventer like piece in it, can't remove itYour last sentence was not as understandable as you thought it was.
Is the tile porcelain tile?
Anyway, I would consider a right-angle stop valve at the wall, and then hide all of your adapting behind that European toilet skirt.
the tile is attached to the wall using silicone and "grouted" with matching silicone so in theory I could remove it, I installed it like that having in mind this type of problems but I would not do it just for thisMy take is that the current plan for assembling the valve and various adapters to the end of the PEX stubout is going to put a non-trivial amount of weight on the cantilevered PEX. The metal sleeve would restrain the PEX and take some of the weight, if it is rigidly mounted.
Try the silicone suggestion, tape the sleeve in place where you want it, give it 24 hours to cure. If the silicone fails, you'll be able to scrape it off and research other options. You could always (destructively) remove the one tile and reinstall a new tile with a smaller hole for the PEX and predrilled holes for the cover.
I believe the OP said that the tile is applied over strapping/insulation over a basement cement block wall, so that would not be possible.
Cheers, Wayne
Do what reach and I both now said.the shut off valve has a filter and a backflow preventer like piece in it, can't remove it
Here is a picture of what I am dealing with
I am not crazy about having to drill next to the existing hole there
Besides that there is a long way to the cinder blocks, I need to go through the tile+thinset, drywall and expanded polystyrene insulation so I will have little control on how an anchor will attach to the wall and I would need long and thin screws
Is there any other way to install this ?
The PEX will take a sharkbite at the end
View attachment 79876
This is awkward, but...
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