Kitchen Faucet Replacement...problems with leak and cold water valve won't shut off

[RSMBob]

It's been a plumbing crisis here...2 weeks ago water in the garage...thought it was leaky dishwasher (which needed replacing anyways) but it was a pipe in the wall...fortunately it was almost at ground level so not much damage.

Had dishwasher replaced last week...uncovered a leaky kitchen faucet that has caused pretty extensive water/mold damage under sink and adjacent cabinet interior. Been trying to dry it out for the last week.

Bought a new faucet to replace the leaky one and I go to shut the H and C water off...Cold won't shut off. Valve turns but nothing happens.

I take it that I need to shut off at the main valve before I do anything and either replace the cold water shut-off valve or put another one in as an extension between the broken valve and the faucet supply line. The latter is kind of cheating so how hard is it to replace the regular quarter-turn shut-off valve?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Jadnashua]

Valves can be soldered on, threaded on, or held in place by compression fittings. Hard to say how to replace yours, since it could be any one of those three methods of attachment. Generally, the most common attachment on newer homes is a compression fitting. Older ones may be soldered or threaded on. A picture would make it easier for someone to tell, but given the description, you can probably tell yourself. A compression fitting will have a separate compression nut on the backside. A threaded one will probably have some threads showing on the pipe. A soldered one won't have any threads, nut or wrench flats on it, since you don't need to turn it once installed. Actually, there is a fourth method - a push-on, cinch valve. This won't have any wrench flats, threads, or nuts.

 

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[PlumbersSanJose]

The answer to your question is that this type of valve replacment is generally pretty straight forward once the water is turned of depending on the accesability of the area.