Iron Bacteria

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Dan_Lake

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Having an issue with iron bacteria bio fouling, which quickly clogged big blue 2-stage particulate and iron filter. The iron bacteria also leaves small amount of oily sheen and clumpy film in toilet tanks. Well has been previously treated by driller for “iron algae” with industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, with no long term benefit.

Well water is 6.5 ph, with iron level between 0.3 and 0.5 ppm, although the primary concern appears to be the iron bacteria which clogs filter and fouls 300 gal cistern inside the house. Chlorine injection system is already in place will be retained to help oxidize iron and kill bacteria. Looking to add a backflushing iron filter.

Questions.

1) vendors selling iron filters do not agree with respect to requirement for a “contact tank” to allow time for the chlorine to kill the iron bacteria, after the chlorinator and before the backflushable iron filtration tank. Is that advisable/required?

2) vendors also disagree for the need to adjust ph to at least 7.0, in order to generally filter iron effectively, is that advisable/required?

3) Does presence of chlorinator to “pre”-oxidize the iron prior to the iron filter lessen the importance of the ph needing to be 7.0 or greater, if in fact 7.0 is advisable?

4) at least one vendor warns against using air-injection type iron filter with iron bacteria issues as the introduction of O2 will lead to iron bacteria growth in the filter media itself and fouling of thta filter. Any feedback on that one?

Many thanks in advance for your time to assist.
Dan
 

Taylorjm

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So I don't think this will help your situation but we would have the oily sheen and a nasty, almost like urine smell in our bathrooms at a cottage because the water in the toilet tanks would sit for awhile and grow the iron bacteria. I used some kind of magnet off amazon that sits in the bottom of the tank and the problem went away and the toilet tank stays much cleaner and the smell is gone.
 

ditttohead

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Questions.

1) vendors selling iron filters do not agree with respect to requirement for a “contact tank” to allow time for the chlorine to kill the iron bacteria, after the chlorinator and before the backflushable iron filtration tank. Is that advisable/required? Highly recommended. No disadvantage to adding a contact tank, I highly recommend a baffled contact tank.

2) vendors also disagree for the need to adjust ph to at least 7.0, in order to generally filter iron effectively, is that advisable/required? After chlorine injection, iron should revert to the ferric state even at this slightly lower pH. A backwashing iron filter should be able to handle it just fine but time will tell. I would forgo the pH correction for now.

3) Does presence of chlorinator to “pre”-oxidize the iron prior to the iron filter lessen the importance of the ph needing to be 7.0 or greater, if in fact 7.0 is advisable? Chlorine will allow you to effectively reduce iron ay slightly lower pH levels.

4) at least one vendor warns against using air-injection type iron filter with iron bacteria issues as the introduction of O2 will lead to iron bacteria growth in the filter media itself and fouling of thta filter. Any feedback on that one? We never recommend AIO style systems with iron bacteria, this will typically cause problems. If you iron bacteria level is very low, then AIO with ozone may work but since the ozone is only present during the regen cycle and typically self destructs within a few minutes of the system going back online, it is only marginally effective at controlling the bacterial issues.

Many thanks in advance for your time to assist.
 

Jim Carlisle

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I have a lake house in the Adirondacks. The well has noticeable, annoying levels of sulfur and iron. I purchased a 2-tank system from a company in Phoenix, AZ, called Worldwide Environmental Systems, based on high recommendation by a friend living in a luxury house in Scottsdale. HE said all the houses in his subdivision need and have this system to filter their city water. I use mine for well water. It is amazing. The ph is perfect, no bacteria, and no iron or sulfur smell at all. I drink from the tap, with no need for bottled water. I now have this installed on two homes.

Best of all, there are zero chemical additives, which most "treatment" companies make most of their money by selling. No chlorine, no potassium permanganate, no salt. It just back washes. The second tank softens the water, so no spots on glass. And his prices are very reasonable, especially for builders, shipping is free. Much of his business is commercial, such as restaurants, golf courses, and custom builder homes.

https://weswater.com/
Wes Triplett
Worldwide Environmental Solutions, LLC
8711 E. Pinnacle Peak Road, #120
Scottsdale, AZ. 85255-3517
800.789.9543 - Toll Free
WTriplett@wesusa.com
I hope this is useful. -- Jim
 

Dan_Lake

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Questions.

1) vendors selling iron filters do not agree with respect to requirement for a “contact tank” to allow time for the chlorine to kill the iron bacteria, after the chlorinator and before the backflushable iron filtration tank. Is that advisable/required? Highly recommended. No disadvantage to adding a contact tank, I highly recommend a baffled contact tank.

2) vendors also disagree for the need to adjust ph to at least 7.0, in order to generally filter iron effectively, is that advisable/required? After chlorine injection, iron should revert to the ferric state even at this slightly lower pH. A backwashing iron filter should be able to handle it just fine but time will tell. I would forgo the pH correction for now.

3) Does presence of chlorinator to “pre”-oxidize the iron prior to the iron filter lessen the importance of the ph needing to be 7.0 or greater, if in fact 7.0 is advisable? Chlorine will allow you to effectively reduce iron ay slightly lower pH levels.

4) at least one vendor warns against using air-injection type iron filter with iron bacteria issues as the introduction of O2 will lead to iron bacteria growth in the filter media itself and fouling of thta filter. Any feedback on that one? We never recommend AIO style systems with iron bacteria, this will typically cause problems. If you iron bacteria level is very low, then AIO with ozone may work but since the ozone is only present during the regen cycle and typically self destructs within a few minutes of the system going back online, it is only marginally effective at controlling the bacterial issues.

Many thanks in advance for your time to assist.

@Dittohead, greatly appreciate your expertise and time to answer, it is a huge help, thx, Dan
 
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