Intertherm Electric , can't find anode.

[Deeiche]

19 year old Intertherm Electric, can't find anode. There is a knockout and two plugs on top cover. I figure two plugs is for foam insulation blowin, there is nothing under the knockout but foam insulation.

Could the anode be hidden under the foam insulation where the knockout is?

I own a 19 year old manufactured home with an Intertherm Electric water heater in Northern New Mexico, the home came with the land when I bought it several years ago as a weekend getaway. A couple weekends ago I visited and realized no hot water. Thinking the worst the first thing I looked into was replacing water heater, with further knowledge I found out if the tank isn't heating it's pretty straightforward to replace the elements, thermostats and anode. So I bought replacement thermostats, elements and anode at HD and headed up for a day long project. What I found when I got there was the over temp switch on upper thermostat had popped, so I reset the over temp switch, drained the water heater of a lot of black sediment and chunks. I then looked for the anode but could not find it.

FWIW, some previous owner had cranked the temp settings to the max on upper/lower thermostats. I turned it down the 120 degree setting. It used to "pop and crack" really loudly, now there is some noise, but a lot less since I drained it.

 

[Reach4]

You could have a combo cold input+anode as in the photos on this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/anode-rod-soldered-closed.77701/

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

A 19-year old WH may not be worth trying to replace the anode, your call, though. Average life on a WH is closer to 7-years. Yours, because it may not be used extensively, and maybe on well-water(?) might. Some do last a very long time if the conditions and luck of the draw are all in alignment.

One consideration, though about the temperature setting...water at 120-degrees doesn't allow (much) crud to grow in it, if it is turned off in between your visits, the water inside could easily become somewhat toxic...that may be why they had the aquastat turned up...to sanitize the tank when it eventually got turned back on when you arrive. The water has to be a lot hotter than 120-degrees for a while to kill stuff verses stopping what may come in from the supply from multiplying.

FWIW, if you do drain it, make sure to refill it completely and purge the air (by just running a hot lead somewhere until the stream is steady) before you turn it back on, or the element, without water around it (and the top one turns on first) will quickly burn out...they need to be immersed in water to prevent that.

 

[Deeiche]

thanks for the idea, but on most manufactured rated water heaters the inlet / outlet are on the side because of limited space. On this home there is plenty of room for a water heater with inlet/outlet on the top, however "regular" water heaters are not HUD approved for manufactured home.

You could have a combo cold input+anode as in the photos on this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/anode-rod-soldered-closed.77701/

 

[Deeiche]

Yep, it is on well water (1500' well ) . The previous owners lived year round at the home. I bought it to retire to, which sadly keeps getting put off.

I had a hot water faucet open while refilling to purge the air. I think they had it turned up so high so they could extend the length of time they had hot water. Of course when the hot water ran out the recovery time was longer.

thanks for the input.

A 19-year old WH may not be worth trying to replace the anode, your call, though. Average life on a WH is closer to 7-years. Yours, because it may not be used extensively, and maybe on well-water(?) might. Some do last a very long time if the conditions and luck of the draw are all in alignment.

One consideration, though about the temperature setting...water at 120-degrees doesn't allow (much) crud to grow in it, if it is turned off in between your visits, the water inside could easily become somewhat toxic...that may be why they had the thermostat turned up...to sanitize the tank when it eventually got turned back on when you arrive. The water has to be a lot hotter than 120-degrees for a while to kill stuff verses stopping what may come in from the supply from multiplying.

FWIW, if you do drain it, make sure to refill it completely and purge the air (by just running a hot lead somewhere until the stream is steady) before you turn it back on, or the element, without water around it (and the top one turns on first) will quickly burn out...they need to be immersed in water to prevent that.

 

[Jadnashua]

Yes, raising the storage temperature of the tank does extend the time you can use hot water since you'll generally be using less of it, but it does tend to have an effect on the life of the tank from the larger thermal stresses between when full, and after a lot of use with all of the cold coming in.

My boiler has a setting to sanitize the indirect WH, like if you were away and had it set off or quite low to save energy.