Installing storage tank

[Reach4]

Use a flow inducer sleeve if you use a submersible pump in the tank. Bottom tether switch is to shut off the pressure pump if the tank runs dry. Top controls the well pump filling the tank.

 

[Esm]

I did read the other post but, if anything, it increased my confusion which pump to buy.
It's just a simple task to pump water from a storage tank 10 ft away into a pressure tank.
I did not realize that it was such a difficult thing.
Maybe I'm just naive.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

1/2 HP 10 gpm if submersible with normal specs BUT that Hallmark that says 33 gpm is probably about a 10 gpm pump using normal specs. I suspect that 33 is for zero head, which is a weird way to specify. Submersible is quieter than a jet pump. Cheap OK because it is easy to change vs one down the well.

2-wire is easier to wire up, and 3-wire is easier for starting on a generator.

 

[Esm]

So, I'm looking at this Pump:
Hallmark Industries MA0343X-4 Deep Well Submersible Pump, 1/2 hp, 110V, 60 Hz, 25 GPM, 150' Head, Stainless Steel, 4".
It has a built-in control box. How does that work with my existing pressure tank?

 

[Bannerman]

Here is a link to the inexpensive 1 HP pump that was recommended in the other thread.
https://www.amazon.com/Hallmark-Industries-MA0414X-7-Submersible-Stainless/dp/B07LB4MD3Z

Although the pressure and flow rate will be greater than you actually need, if paired with a Cycle Stop Valve, the CSV will limit the flow from the pump from as low as 1 gpm up to whatever flow rate you will require at constant pressure.

The 1/2 Hp pump with 150' head rating you specified above, will deliver only 64 psi maximum. If you want 60 psi into your house, the pump's maximum pressure is too close to the shut-off pressure. The 1 HP pump with 207' head can deliver up to 90 psi so there will be plenty of leeway and you could run higher pressure into your home if wanted.

 

[Reach4]

Should work fine. 2-wire pump. No control box.

You should not need bigger than 1/2 HP.

For 120 volt power, you can wire two sets of contacts in parallel, and don't switch the hot. You could also switch the hot, using one set of pressure switch contacts for hot and one for neutral.

 

[Esm]

Well, the pressure pump is not supposed to feed the house but the existing pressure tank, which, in turn, is supposed to feed the house.
We've always had around 45 psi, which was good enough for 15 years, pressure doesn't need to be higher.

 

[Valveman]

A 1/2HP, in a 10 GPM series will work, but not the 25 GPM in 1/2HP as Bannerman says. The 1HP,33 GPM is way over kill as it will do 22 GPM at 50 PSI, and will cycle like crazy without a CSV. Without a CSV you would want at least one of the 86 gallon tanks with this pump and two would be better. But is much less expensive than even a 1/2HP, 10 GPM pump, and will work fine with a 4.5 gallon size tank and a CSV1A.

 

[Valveman]

Well, the pressure pump is not supposed to feed the house but the existing pressure tank, which, in turn, is supposed to feed the house.
We've always had around 45 psi, which was good enough for 15 years, pressure doesn't need to be higher.

That is not how pump systems work. The pump feeds everything and the pressure tank is only there to limit the number of on/off cycles the pump has to do to feed everything. Water comes from the pump, not the tank. Your switch should be working from 20 to 40 or 30 to 50, but not around 45 PSI. If you can live with "good enough" pressure you can use the 25 GPM, 1/2HP and a 30/50 pressure switch. If you want strong constant pressure I recommend the 1HP, 33 GPM pump with a PK1A set for 40/60 and the CSV1A set for 50 PSI constant.

 

[Reach4]

I now expect that 1/2 HP pump would be about a 15 or 16 gallon pump using normal descriptions. It is only 4 stages.

I suspect it is similar to the Franklin V 15 gpm 1/2 HP

A 1/2 hp, 10 gpm pump could develop higher pressures. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...eries-4-in-submersible-pump-115v?cm_vc=-10005

 

[Esm]

I just checked the existing pressure tank and found out it's a WELL-X-TROL WX-302 with a 86 gallon capacity.
Since we don't use more than about 75 gallon/day (a guess), "crazy" cycling doesn't seem to be a concern.
Even if the pump inside the storage tank would really cycle like "crazy" it can be replaced easily.
The well pump shouldn't cycle very often, triggered by the tank float.
So, my planned setup with the Hallmark Industries MA0343X-4 Deep Well Submersible Pump, 1/2 hp, 110V, 60 Hz, 25 GPM, 150' Head, Stainless Steel, 4" should work fine, right?

 

[Bannerman]

86 gallons is the total tank capacity for both air and water. As a diaphragm tank will contain roughly 75% air, the tank's specifications indicate the water capacity will be 26.6 gallons when utilizing 30/50 pressure switch settings as it appears your system is configured for.

A pressure tank is not sized by the quantity of water needed each day, but is determined by how long the pump is expected to take to refill the tank from 30 psi to 50 psi. Because frequent Start/Stop cycles will both cause the pump to heat-up and reduce the pump's lifespan, the pressure tank is intended to provide sufficient run time so as to cool the pump and reduce cycling. The usual goal is to size the tank large enough so the pump will run for 60 to 120 seconds minimum once started.

 

[Valveman]

Like Bannerman says, at 30/50 an 86 gallon size tank only holds 26 gallons of water. And that 1/2HP, 25 GPM pump will just barely work at 30/50 pressure. If you only use water 3 times a day and only use 75 gallons per day, the CSV and small tank will only cycle 3 times per day just like the big tank without a CSV. The difference is with the big tank you are always getting decreasing pressure as the tank drains from 50 all the way down to 30. With the CSV and small tank you would get stronger 40 PSI constant anytime you use water.

I would prefer the 1HP, 33 GPM pump so you could have 40/60 pressure with an even stronger 50 PSI constant from a CSV, but either would be stronger pressure using a CSV. Of course, if you have gotten use to that 30/50 low pressure in the house, just don't try a CSV or you will figure out you have been living with miserable pressure all these years.

 

[Esm]

Guys,
I noticed that the 2 pumps under consideration have installed control boxes.
Does that mean that the pump turns itself off when a certain pressure is reached in the pressure tank?
If that is correct, the existing pressure tank control box would be retired?
Thanks again for putting up with me.
Ed

 

[Reach4]

I noticed that the 2 pumps under consideration have installed control boxes.

I don't think so.

 

[Esm]

So what IS this control box inside the pump supposed to do? The specs say one doesn't need an external control box.

 

[Valveman]

So what IS this control box inside the pump supposed to do? The specs say one doesn't need an external control box.

Not really a control box built in, just a start capacitor for a 2 wire motor start. You will still need a regular pressure switch to turn the pump on and off as needed.

 

[Esm]

The one that currently controls the well pump, which, in the future, would be cycled by the tank float?

 

[Valveman]

Yes.

 

[Esm]

Guys,
Thanks for all your advice and input.
I think I will settle for the 1 hp pump.
Cheers,
Ed