Installing Shower Panel, stubout question.

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by CaptBridgeport, Oct 12, 2019.

  1. CaptBridgeport

    CaptBridgeport New Member

    Oct 12, 2019
    Keller, TX
    Hello, and thank you.

    The shower panel asks for stubouts and 90 degree downward garden hose/washing machine male threads.

    I was originally thinking of using 2 90 degree Drop ear elbows like used with shower arms. I liked the idea of being able to screw the elbow into a backer board. But having second thoughts as 1) the pressure will be at full house pressure, and 2) someone down the road may accidently back it off for some crazy reason and create a leak.

    So I though maybe a soldered copper stubout would be better, safer from un-threading and creating a leak, and the fact that a 90 degree soldered elbow with a thread adapter would taking any twisting force away from the soldered joints and the system should be quite strong enough to idiot proof the connection. All this is hidden behind the panel though exposed outside the shower wall by an inch.

    So is the full soldered approach better, or is the drop ear elbow, plus straight nipple with a 90 elbow / adapter better???

    Thanks for the input.

    - Robert
  2. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida Retired

    Oct 28, 2009
    Orlando, Florida
    Not sure what you are talking about. A model number for the shower panel(?). A picture of the shower enclosure. Do the instructions show any suggestions?
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  4. CaptBridgeport

    CaptBridgeport New Member

    Oct 12, 2019
    Keller, TX
    All ShowerSpa Panels install the same way, like a washing machine. Thats what's nice about them, 4 years down the road you can simply pop on and caulk a new shower panel when and if you like, selling the house etc.

    The link shows a link to instructions but they are minimal and only say ....
    Prior to sheetrock, stub-out ½" hot and cold supply lines beyond finished wall surface, 4" on center. For best results, attach 90° brass fittings (available at most hardware stores) to the stub-outs maintaining ¼" – ½" of space between the fitting and finished wall. The open end of the 90° brass fittings should point down so the supply lines attach parallel to the wall. 1

    But I came across this and now leaning more to soldered... ( it shows a picture of soldered stubout)

    My question is, is soldered stubout (as in picture in above link) better stronger more reliable than a common shower arm with drop ear elbow?
  5. ImOld

    ImOld Octogenerian

    Jun 1, 2013
    In the rumble seat
    4. Locate hot and cold supply lines entering valve. Using a recipro-
    cating saw with sharp metal saw blade, cut existing valve out,
    preserving threads of the supply lines entering valve. You should
    also cut the riser within wall supplying the existing showerhead.
    Carefully twist and remove valve.
    That's all I need to see from the instructions! And now for something useful. The instructions are straight forward for the product. Use them.
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