rudebutler
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Hi-
This is my first post on this forum. I've been reading a lot of the posts and I'd just like to say how polite and knowledgeable everyone seems to be.
I'm considering having an indirect-fired water tank installed. Any thoughts/comments will be greatly appreciated!
I live in the Hudson Valley in NY. Currently, I have a 2100 sq ft house with hot water heat. The heat and hot tap water are supplied by a Weil-McLean boiler with a tankless coil and a Becket AFG burner. They are about 20 years old but in great shape I am told. There are 4 of us in the house.
The old part of the house (1901) is on one zone (1200 sq ft) and uses cast iron radiators. The new part of the house (2002) is 2 zone and uses baseboards.
I have a pellet stove which covers much of the heating duty in the cold months.
The problem is that since the addition, we don't have enough hot water. The math was done beforehand, but the reality is that in the winter the hot water just runs out. To compensate, we have adjusted the boiler settings to 150 low, 190 high, and 10 diff. This makes for some VERY hot water at first and it just doesn't last. I'd like to install a water tank. I read that an indirect-fired was the most efficient way to go. I got 2 quotes for rather different set-ups and am very confused on which way to go.
The first was from my plumber. He would disconnect the piping for the hot water coil (?), replace the boiler control, add a Taco circulator, and add a switching relay. He would install a Superstor SSU45 for a total of about $3400. Basically, this set up would only have the burner run when there was a demand-the coil could get completely cold.
The second quote was from my oil company. Not as detailed, basically add a Peerless Partner and the total would be about $2700. Their thought is to keep the boiler hot (120). I do have to say, one time I went away for a long weekend and shut the boiler down and when I got home there was water all over the floor. So keeping it hot seems like a good maintenance, if not economical, idea.
I like both outfits a lot, they have been very good to me for many years. Is it worth it to add the tank but keep the controls the same? Is there another option I should be looking into?
Thanks for reading all that!
Rich
PS-HVAC is not my strong suite. If you need more details, please ask and I will gladly provide!
This is my first post on this forum. I've been reading a lot of the posts and I'd just like to say how polite and knowledgeable everyone seems to be.
I'm considering having an indirect-fired water tank installed. Any thoughts/comments will be greatly appreciated!
I live in the Hudson Valley in NY. Currently, I have a 2100 sq ft house with hot water heat. The heat and hot tap water are supplied by a Weil-McLean boiler with a tankless coil and a Becket AFG burner. They are about 20 years old but in great shape I am told. There are 4 of us in the house.
The old part of the house (1901) is on one zone (1200 sq ft) and uses cast iron radiators. The new part of the house (2002) is 2 zone and uses baseboards.
I have a pellet stove which covers much of the heating duty in the cold months.
The problem is that since the addition, we don't have enough hot water. The math was done beforehand, but the reality is that in the winter the hot water just runs out. To compensate, we have adjusted the boiler settings to 150 low, 190 high, and 10 diff. This makes for some VERY hot water at first and it just doesn't last. I'd like to install a water tank. I read that an indirect-fired was the most efficient way to go. I got 2 quotes for rather different set-ups and am very confused on which way to go.
The first was from my plumber. He would disconnect the piping for the hot water coil (?), replace the boiler control, add a Taco circulator, and add a switching relay. He would install a Superstor SSU45 for a total of about $3400. Basically, this set up would only have the burner run when there was a demand-the coil could get completely cold.
The second quote was from my oil company. Not as detailed, basically add a Peerless Partner and the total would be about $2700. Their thought is to keep the boiler hot (120). I do have to say, one time I went away for a long weekend and shut the boiler down and when I got home there was water all over the floor. So keeping it hot seems like a good maintenance, if not economical, idea.
I like both outfits a lot, they have been very good to me for many years. Is it worth it to add the tank but keep the controls the same? Is there another option I should be looking into?
Thanks for reading all that!
Rich
PS-HVAC is not my strong suite. If you need more details, please ask and I will gladly provide!