Identify Threaded or compression shut-off valve from photo?

[JasonM]

koa, thank you very much for detailed instruction. I am practicing it in my mind before I get to do it.

jerryR, thank you for the additional information.

I have some more question.

1. What kind of grease or paste do you put on the thread of the nut? Plumber's grease or silicone lubricant?

2. I have the photo attached. After I detached the supply line on the faucet side, is turning the nut clockwise while holding the shut-off valve body still correct as shown in the photo?

3. When install the new valve, what do you mean by "Slide the valve over the pipe until it bottoms out"? Does it mean that push the valve all the way in until it can not go in any further?

Thank you very much.

 

[Koa]

1. A compression fitting doesn't really need anything but tightening to seal. Any little bit grease, drop of oil or Teflon plumbers paste will just help nut to turn easier as it compresses the ring.

2. Yes, turn the nut clockwise to remove. You might find you will need to rotate the old valve body counterclockwise to get it completely off since you have so little room behind the nut.

3. Yes. If you're in Home Depot open one of the valve boxes and slide it on one of the short pieces of copper pipe they sell and you'll see what I mean. You just want the compression as far on the pipe as it will go by bottoming out the valve.

The hardest part is usually getting my body and wrenches in the tight areas where the valves are to comfortably work on them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JerryR]

koa, thank you very much for detailed instruction. I am practicing it in my mind before I get to do it.


jerryR, thank you for the additional information.


I have some more question.


1. What kind of grease or paste do you put on the thread of the nut? Plumber's grease or silicone lubricant?

I used a drop of light household oil like 3 in 1 oil on the male threads of the new valve. It just helps tightening the nut if more torque is required. DO NOT USE ANY TEFLON TAPE.

2. I have the photo attached. After I detached the supply line on the faucet side, is turning the nut clockwise while holding the shut-off valve body still correct as shown in the photo?

See my picture attached, CLICK ON IT. I found it best to position the 2 wrenches like in the picture and squeeze them together to break the nut loose. That is then best way I found to get needed leverage to break the nut loose without stressing the pipe. Once the nut is loose I just hold the nut and turn the valve counterclockwise to unscrew it from the nut.

Then I use the puller tool to remove the nut and old compression ring.

3. When install the new valve, what do you mean by "Slide the valve over the pipe until it bottoms out"? Does it mean that push the valve all the way in until it can not go in any further?

Exactly. Then use the same procedure squeezing the wrenches together to tighten the nut to the valve.

 

[Tom098]

Koa's instructions were good. A drop of oil on the threads of the new stop is what I use.

I replaced 21 Angle Stops in my 1996 home last year. I used the Pasco puller which made it easy to remove the compression rings and nuts without damaging the pipe. Not one leak.

Reusing the rings may be an option but no always.

I used a 13/16" and 15/16" open end wrenches.

Here is a picture of the tools I use to replace stops.

View attachment 26326

 

[Tom098]

When necessary, I've always mini hack sawed the olive (compression ring) off the copper pipe. Only cut so far and then split the olive - this way, the copper pipe wont be nicked or distorted.

Often, without cutting, a stubborn olive can be lightly tapped off with channel locks loosely set behind the nut.

Either way, after removing the olive, sandpaper the pipe.

 

[Asktom]

I agree on the light oil, something like 3-in-one.

 

[Jadnashua]

ONce you have the new valve on, you should not be able to rotate it on the pipe or pull it off. The compression ring, when it is really hard to pull off is an indication of either corrosion (less likely) or that it was over-tightened in the first place. As said, one wrench is used to hold the valve body in the position you want it, and the second one is used to tighten the nut which compresses the ring to make the seal. A little lube on the threads makes it smoother to tighten, but isn't a requirement since it does nothing in the actual sealing of the valve in place...without it, a DIY'er may think it is tight when it is just a little defect in the threads - it turns smoother with a dab of something there.

 

[JasonM]

koa, jerryR, tom098, asktom, jadnashua, thank you all for the overwhelming replies.
I should feel very embarrassed if I can not get this job done with all this support.

The Pasco puller that I ordered is on the way.

I thought my old shut off valve is not compression value but the type that it can be threaded in because my old valve does not look like the current BassCraft Commpression shut off valve due to the different material, the color, looks, and the seemingly longer exposed threads between the valve body and the nut.

I always thought that the compression type connector is not as firm and longer lasting as the soldered connector or threaded connector. But I am learning that it is not true.

After all the tools are ready and I learn the procedure hands down, I have to suppress my fear of the past experience and do it.

Until I finish this work, I may have some more questions.

Thank you very much.

 

[JasonM]

I finally replaced 2 shut off valves over the memorial weekend, following the directions discussed here.

One compression ring slipped out easily by hand, and the other ring, I used the Pasco puller and pulled out the ring easily.
I installed the 1/4 turn angle shut off value with the 1/4 additional turn by wrench and there is no leak.

Thank you all again for your help and support.