How do I go from 1/2" Pex to a 1/4" compression?

[JRowley]

Newbie here.

I'm installing an Aprilaire 800 steam humidifier. Included is a saddle valve I'm supposed to pierce a 3/4'' cold water line (PEX-A/Uponor) with. From there, a 1/4" O.D. copper line into the unit's inlet, which also takes a compression fitting.

The problem? It leaks, and I've tried twice.

The solution should be to tee off of the 3/4" line with 1/2". Or, replace the saddle valve with a tee and then some sort of adapter/valve and run the 1/4" O.D. copper line into that (so all I'm replacing is the saddle valve).

But, I can't figure out how to go from a PEX-A tee to whatever can take a 1/4" O.D. copper compression fitting.

I'm assuming I need a ball valve that's 1/2" for the PEX-A side, then the other side needs to be... what? Because I am unable to find any ball valves that are 1/2" x 1/4".

What am I missing?

Thank you

 

[FullySprinklered]

Install a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee in the line and stub out a piece of 1/2 " pipe . Install a push stop with a 1/4" outlet on the stub.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Look into John Gest fittings.... push pull fittings

install the sharkbite tee in the line and put a sharkbite ball valve on it....
sharkbite also makes 3/4 x 1/2 fittings and then you reduce down from there

then reduce the line down with the Gest fittings to the size you want..
they shouldbe available in hardware stores...

 

[Reach4]

I went with Sharkbite for going from 1/2 PEX-A to 3/8 compression. No drama. That was not the first thing I tried. My failure with my original try with other fittings was my fault, but by the time I went with the Sharkbite, it sure made the installation easier.

For you, check Sharkbite 24985A, which gives a 1/4 compression output on 3/4 PEX, including PEX-A

Sharkbite 23336-0000LF (angle) and 23337-0000LF (straight) are 1/4 compression out of a 1/2 PEX.

 

[JRowley]

Thank you for the responses!

My concern is that the Sharkbite valves/products are not compatible with PEX-A? We're using the Uponor/Wirsboro PEX that has to be fitted using an "expansion" tool (NOT a crimp tool).

So I guess my question is: Do I go straight from PEX-A into the sharkbite valves or do I need to go from PEX-A to a sharkbite tube, then into the valve?

 

[Reach4]

I am not a plumber. I have done some PEX-A (F1960) stuff with a hand expansion tool for 1/2 and 3/4. One inch with the hand tool would be a bear I think, unless the expansion was being done with a very non-awkward position for the tool. Power would be the way to go.

The Sharkbite works great on the Uponor AquaPEX and other standard size PEX. No extra insert is needed; that is part of the Sharkbite.

With Sharkbite the PEX does not even have to be dry. I know they say the PEX does not have to be dry when you use F1960 expansion rings and fittings, but I disagree. When I did that, the ring slipped away from the tool over the PEX. I then used a new ring, but had to expand the ring to get it on the PEX. I also had to hold the ring to fight it slipping. In two cases, the resulting connection leaked. I put a worm-type hose clamp around the ring, and the leak stopped. A month or so later I removed the clamp, and there was no leak. But my action item is to make sure the PEX is dry before putting on the ring.

My concern is that the Sharkbite valves/products are not compatible with PEX-A? We're using the Uponor/Wirsboro PEX that has to be fitted using an "expansion" tool (NOT a crimp tool).

Actually you could also use your AquaPEX with crimp or clamp fittings. You could, for example, do that where a fitting is not available in expansion, or in a place where your expansion tool is in an awkward place. I have not actually done that, but PEX-A, PEX-B, and PEX-C pipes are the same size inside and out.

 

[stealle]

Thank you for the responses!

My concern is that the Sharkbite valves/products are not compatible with PEX-A? We're using the Uponor/Wirsboro PEX that has to be fitted using an "expansion" tool (NOT a crimp tool).

So I guess my question is: Do I go straight from PEX-A into the sharkbite valves or do I need to go from PEX-A to a sharkbite tube, then into the valve?

I'm definitely not a plumber! However, I have researched a lot recently about sharkbite fittings and the various types of pex (a, b, and c). I can't find the info at the moment, but it's my understanding that sharkbite fittings are compatible with ALL types of PEX. The sharkbite fittings come with an insert (you can see it inside the fitting). You can just shove the PEX tubing right into the fitting and insert and that will work out just fine 99% of the time. However, the insert can be a little tricky at times. You can actually remove the insert from the sharkbite fitting and stick it into the PEX line first, then insert the PEX tube into the sharkbite fitting for a sure thing. And just FYI, you can optionally remove and discard this insert if you are using anything other than PEX such as cpvc or copper.

 

[JRowley]

Thanks again for the responses. I found the Sharkbite fitting at Lowes and brought some 1/2" PEX to try out, and it fit right. Once connected, is there any way to remove the 1/2" line into the fitting or is it permanent?

My last question: Is it appropriate to use a 20' foot braided stainless supply line from the fitting all the way to the unit's inlet? Or, should I be running 1/2" with a few elbows as close as possible, with the smallest possible supply line?

Thank you!

 

[Reach4]

Thanks again for the responses. I found the Sharkbite fitting at Lowes and brought some 1/2" PEX to try out, and it fit right. Once connected, is there any way to remove the 1/2" line into the fitting or is it permanent?

The official way is to use their "disconnect clip" http://www.sharkbite.com/product-category/by-system/push-fit/sharkbite-tools/

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index....n-testing-for-leaks-and-yes-ive-got-em.72239/ #7

You can use a wrench... open end or adjustable.

This guy makes some good observations and has some misgivings; I think he is too pessimistic.

 

[Jadnashua]

The Sharkbite fitting seals with an O-ring(s?), but holds itself onto the tubing with stainless steel teeth that are angled so you can push it on, but it won't come off without using the proper technique. They make a special little tool to make it easier. Essentially, you push the tool up against the outer ring, back towards the body of the fitting, and that causes the SS teeth to retract so you can then pull the fitting off of the tubing. Those teeth can score the soft pex, but the O-ring is further back, so it should still seal IF you get the tubing seated fully if you then reinstall it.